My Heart Belongs to Scotland – Edinburgh, Day 2

After an amazing day exploring Edinburgh, finishing off with an evening at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, I rested and prepared for the last full day in the city, which included time at St. Giles’ Cathedral and Edinburgh Castle.

Despite visiting Edinburgh previously, I never got a chance to visit these two sites. I was so excited because I knew that these were the perfect sites to visit with a group: having a guide that is dedicated to sharing history and answering your questions is a top tier experience that isn’t always available to you as a solo traveler. Also, members of tour groups often come up with excellent questions that add richness and deeper understanding to the conversations held while touring.

St Giles’ Cathedral is a very special place for Clan Graham and the Clan Graham Society (the group I toured with while in Scotland). This is the final resting place for James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, the ancestral head of Clan Graham. This somber site is a stunningly beautiful building, with lots of stained glass and a ton of fascinating history. The church still operates out of this building, as it has done for the past 900 years. You can attend services if you happen to be in Edinburgh: services are held on Sundays and mid-day during the week.

I was deeply moved as I paid my respects to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. I was amazed by the peaceful and dignified likeness of Graham on his sarcophagus. Richard Graham, North American Chieftain of Clan Graham, and president of Clan Graham Society, provided a stirring recitation of the poem written by James Graham prior to his execution.

The poem recited was, “Let them bestow on every airth a limb”, a haunting description of the execution that the 1st Marquess knew he’d experience, as well as his assured belief that God would recover his spirit and view him as righteous. This beautiful poem is worth sharing here (courtesy of All Poetry):

Let them bestow on every airth a limb,

Let them bestow on every airth a limb,
Then open all my veins, that I may swim
To thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake,
Then place my par boiled head upon a stake;
Scatter my ashes, strow them in the air.
Lord, since thou knowest where all these atoms are,
I’m hopeful thou’lt recover once my dust, 
And confident thou’lt raise me with the just.

I also saw that James Graham and some of his descendants were honored at several different memorials within St Giles’.

I was amused by the story of Jenny Geddes, the woman who threw a stool at the head of a St. Giles’ minister, in protest of the attempted Anglican-izing of the Scottish church. I was in awe of the Thistle Chapel, where the Order of the Thistle (the chivalrous organization headed by King Charles III) convenes. Hearing the significance of each of the seats and the decorative emblems chosen for the members of the Order was fascinating.

This beautiful cathedral also had the honor of accommodating Queen Elizabeth II’s body for nearly 24 hours as she was relocated from Balmoral Castle to Buckingham Palace. A couple of years ago, I had the honor to pay my respects to Her Majesty at her final resting place in Windsor Castle. I did not know that her body had also traveled to Edinburgh en route to Westminster Abbey.

One unique memorial plaque that I saw was the one to Elsie Maud Inglis, a physician and suffragist who founded the Scottish Women’s Hospitals for Foreign Services. Her organization served extensively during World War I, and supported the Serbian army during this time. Inglis is honored in both Edinburgh and in Serbia.

And what Scottish historical site would be complete without a tribute to national treasure Robert Burns? The stained glass window dedicated to Burns is a delight to the eyes.

After leaving St. Giles’ Cathedral, we headed over to Edinburgh Castle. These two significant landmarks are a short distance from one another. I really loved Edinburgh Castle, and it was a treat to see the Scottish crown jewels (sadly, we were not allowed to photograph them). Seeing this incredible site, where King James the VI was born, made a lasting impression on me.

When we finished touring the castle, we met up with a friend living in Edinburgh and had a great lunch at a local restaurant, The Mussel and Steak Bar. I don’t like mussels, but I enjoy most other seafood, so I knew I’d find something I like. I had an AMAZING crab lunch that was massive, messy and delicious.

We finished the evening with a dinner and performance at Ghillie Dhu, where a bagpiper and highland dancers entertained us. We ate a great dinner and I tried real haggis for the first time. We ended the night with a little bit of ceilidh dancing.

My last full day in Edinburgh was incredible and memorable. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful city, but I also missed my family, and I was ready to see them and to get back to my routine.

I’ll talk about my interesting return back to my hometown in my next post. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!