When spending time in Southern California, my dear friend took me to a famous landmark in Riverside. The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa is a beautiful space that has been the #1 Best Historic Hotel in California. I arrived at the perfect time to tour: I came to the hotel right after New Year’s Day. Fortunately for us, the Christmas decorations were still up, including the Christmas lights and gingerbread house. While the hotel was busy, there weren’t nearly as many visitors as they had before Christmas. Here are some photos from my time at The Mission Inn.
The stunning archway leading to the entrance of the hotel
The most unique and fun part of the hotel was the life-size gingerbread house, which was made of real gingerbread and candy. It smelled heavenly, and the hotel had signs up, asking guest to not touch or eat the house!
The gingerbread house
The lobby sported several stunning Christmas trees, which kept the festive spirit alive. I loved seeing the exquisitely decorated trees.
One of the lobby Christmas trees
As an art lover, any statue in my vicinity gets a double take. This marble beauty was no exception. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a photo of the plaque identifying the work.
Marble statue at the Mission Inn
On the exterior, there were tons of striking lights. There was a timed display that lit up the side of one of the buildings that made up the hotel.
Light displays outside
Me with my favorite person outside of the hotel
More light displays
I’m so glad I had a chance to enjoy the Mission Inn during the holiday-adjacent season. The lights were such a treat to my senses, and seeing the other decorations was glorious. I can’t wait to return and spend a little more time at the hotel!
During my trip to Temecula at the beginning of the year, I got a chance to relax, connect, and enjoy some much needed time away from the East Coast. While I was there, I enjoyed tea time at Corbeaux, checked out the glorious Mission Inn, and I also visited one of my friend’s favorite shops. She was emphatic that we must check out this shop, praising both the owner and the products offered. She knows how I feel about anything elegant, scent-related, and unique. So off we went to George Foster the Lifestyle Market, an exceedingly elegant space that features custom fragrances and skin care supplies, among other things.
We got there on New Year’s Eve, and they were closed. However, the owner’s son recognized my friend and let us in. That right there spoke volumes about the kindness and community that the shop prioritizes. I met George a few moments after his son let us in, and they were both so incredibly warm and welcoming. And the space? Absolutely beautiful: it was well-curated, intentional and elevated. George has a background as an interior designer, so it should not be surprising that his space is perfectly appointed. You can tell that he is someone that understands layers of beauty, and that the environment is just as important as the products presented within it.
So I’m in the shop, smelling everything, figuring out what unique item I must buy. Then I come across a scent, and it stops me in my tracks. I know THIS is the one. It was, of course, Velvet Nights. And yup, I bought it. But as I purchased, I found out that it was the last one in the collection: it was a limited edition item, only available for the winter season. And if there’s anything I love, it’s exclusivity, so naturally, I knew I’d made the right choice. It smelled too good, AND it wasn’t mass produced: I knew it had to come home with me.
So while I love the fragrance, I was hesitant to do a review, because it was limited edition, no longer available, and so good that I kind of want to keep it to myself. But, George’s shop deserves a spotlight, so here I am. Even though Velvet Nights isn’t available, I have another recommendation that may work for you, so keep reading to find out about that.
Let’s talk about Velvet Night’s scent profile. It’s a lush amber, with notes of incense, subtle evergreen notes (either pine or cypress, perhaps juniper). If you know anything about ambers, you know they can be . . . a lot. They can come across heavy, syrupy, and overwhelming, depending on the formulation. In older fragrance profiles, amber scents were very dense and intense. However, this scent has none of those cloying notes. It’s clean, crisp, and effervescent, giving you the warmth of an amber without the weight.
This scent is beautifully balanced. It has the warmth of amber, the light smokiness of incense, and the crispness of evergreen notes. And nothing is too dominant in the formulation; each note dances beautifully, creating a harmonious blend that captures the duality of the winter season. If I could describe it, it would be, a walk in the woods on a snowy evening. Yes, I had to borrow from Robert Frost for this one, but that’s exactly what Velvet Nights brought to mind, but with a twist. Yes, you have the chilled air, the quiet around you, and the beauty of nature at rest. But also, you have the warmth of a velvet lined cape, the the gentle crackle of a fireplace, and the lush flavor of a steaming mug of your favorite winter beverage.
Now, aside from the scent’s exquisite profile, I found another reason to love it. It performs spectacularly. After coming home, I had the bottle sitting on my dresser, with the cap on. I hadn’t sprayed it yet. I left the house for a bit, and came back, and as I was settling in, I wondered, “What is that beautiful smell?” I knew I hadn’t lit a candle, so I wasn’t sure what I was smelling. Then I realized: it was the spray. THAT’s how potent it is! As a result, I’ve used it a number of times, but sparingly, because once it’s gone, it’s GONE. And I won’t be able to get it again until next winter (assuming George brings it back). I’m pacing myself, but I also can give it a little break, as the seasons are changing and I start rotating my lighter room sprays.
Now, just because this scent is currently unavailable doesn’t mean that all is lost. Here’s what I suggest:
If you’re near Temecula, go visit George Foster the Lifestyle Market
Ask George about similar scents
Explore the other room sprays (I recommend The Market room spray, which has a scent profile of bergamot, Persian lime, other citrus, and musk).
I loved it and had to review it on my YouTube. Here’s the video:
This scent was a 10 out of 10 for me, and I cannot recommend it enough! Even more impressive was the entire experience: the space, the intentional curation, and the people connected to it. I know for sure that I will be back!
As someone who absolutely adores home fragrance, I’m always on the hunt for a candle or room spray that feels elevated and memorable. I love putting my personal touches into my space, and that means making sure that the aroma of my rooms match the mood I’m trying to invoke. Something about scent – how it decorates a space without visuals or sound – is practically magical to me!
I recently had the pleasure of being contacted by The Gooch Gardener Candle Company, and they kindly sent over two of their candles for review. The first candle that I tried is the one that I’m sharing today, the Orchid and Teakwood scent. Let me tell you, this one made quite the impression on me!
Let me start with the basics of the company. The Gooch Gardener Candle Company is a business that’s local to Virginia (Goochland County) and they participate in farmer’s markets, however, the candles are also available on the website. The scents range between $29 and $37 per candle, depending on the size selected. The scents reflect the beauty of nature, through floral, citrus, woody and fresh notes. Before I lit the candle, I was struck by the care in presentation. The packaging was secure and clearly designed to protect the product well during shipping. Inside, I found a handwritten note from the owners and, as you all know, I love those sorts of details. The note shared that the Orchid and Teakwood scent is one of their bestsellers, which I’m happy to share has been restocked since I got my candle. After experiencing the fragrance, I can see why it’s a fan favorite.
The candle itself is substantial: it’s 16 ounces and features a 3-wick design, a hefty glass container and a perfectly fitting wooden lid to preserve the fragrance when unlit. It has a grounded and understated elegance that works well in a variety of home decor themes.
When I opened the candle, I was met by a lush and layered fragrance. It’s a beautiful blend of floral notes and woody tones: it’s a great dance between soft and structured elements. But what really struck me was the subtle watery notes that came through: I wasn’t expecting that, especially since marine notes weren’t listed in the candle fragrance description. I loved this unexpected touch, which makes the geranium, orchid and lavender transition seamlessly into mahogany and teakwood notes. In fact, I’d argue that the marine notes are what actually tie together the floral and woody notes, eliminating the jarring experience that can happen when two distinctly different fragrance families are combined. There’s a compelling duality in this fragrance: it’s very yin and yang, which makes it so broadly appealing. This balance between delicate and rich notes is a key factor in what takes a fragrance from simply pleasant to truly unforgettable.
Funny enough, I accidentally tested this candle in ways that I usually avoid. Normally, I don’t let my scented candles burn beyond two or three hours at a time. However, I lit this candle and forgot to extinguish it before I left my home to run errands. I returned home – 12 hours later – and was met at my front door with the most luscious scent I’ve had in quite a long while. Please, don’t leave your candles burning that long. And also, please know that I enjoyed the scent lingering in the air for the next 36 or so hours.
Even with my mishandling, the candle performed beautifully. It burned clean and evenly, and there is still a lot of product left in the container, even after my extended burn time. The scent remained extremely smooth and filled the space without overwhelming it.
I love that this candle is versatile, working for a variety of different seasons and occasions. It’s light enough to enjoy during the warmer months, and rich enough to be suitable for cooler weather. It’s effortlessly adaptable, making it a great investment as a home fragrance.
This candle was an absolute pleasure. It’s beautifully designed, thoughtfully crafted, and performs well. If you’re searching for a luxury candle that has a strong scent throw, balanced floral and wood fragrance, and high quality soy wax, then this candle is one that you must check out. I love it so much that I did a video review of it, too. You may view that video here:
If you’ve enjoyed The Gooch Gardener Candle Company, please let me know! I’d love to hear which fragrances you recommend that I try next!
The restaurant is currently featuring the fall menu, which highlighted warm spices, tender brassicas, and autumnal squashes. I went with my daughter, and we both enjoyed the signature tea, which features all of the listed bites and unlimited amounts of any of the non-premium teas (we had to try a premium tea for good measure).
The experience started with us being seated in a lovely room that was a bit further back from the main entrance. Our space was punctuated with a grand Christmas tree that was white with silver accents. The room itself was a deep teal color, with light multicolored wooden floors and gold accents upon the walls. As we took in the beauty of our space, we were greeted by our waiter, who brought us menus and filled our water glasses.
Close up of one of the Christmas trees at Floris
After learning that we could select two teas to start, we discussed which teas sounded most interesting. We decided to try the Marie Antoinette tea as well as the Milk Oolong premium tea (which has a $6 USD upchage per teapot). Our tea arrived while we waited for our food. The Marie Antoinette was fruity, bright and softly floral, with none of the bitterness that can occur with many other black tea varieties. This was probably my favorite tea of the afternoon. The Milk Oolong was just as described: creamy, smooth, and buttery. I can confirm that this tea had notes of milkiness without any actual dairy being included. I was impressed at the subtle but impactful flavor profile on this tea.
Floris tea menu
We were brought a basket of biscuits and scones, along with jam and butter. These were tasty, and a great way to start our tea. The scones featured a swirl of additional flavoring (I don’t know what it was: the items were brought to us while I washed my hands, and I forgot to ask our waiter about it). The scones were softer and sweeter than the biscuits, and both were perfect with our first two pots of tea.
Floris Signature Tea food menu
Our food arrived and it was an impressive presentation. We started our meal with the fried saltines and pimento cheese savory bites (the top level). Rich, a little salty, and a lot crunch, these delicious cheesy bites were perfectly balanced by the tomato conserva garnish, which left a little sweetness and brightness after each bite. We followed up with the baked brie bites (top level), which had little bits of mushroom, pepper jelly, and a sprig of micro greens on top. This is a nice, standard tea dish: soft baked cheese in phyllo dough, with a few other ingredients for more flavor and texture. This is one that would be fairly easy to recreate at home, and would be a tasty hit with your guests!
Our tea bites
We progressed to the roasted sweet potato salad, which had a mixture of cubed sweet potatoes, feta cheese, bits of sauteed kale, and cranberries. The salad was served in a single endive leaf, adding a touch of tasty bitterness to a dish that perfectly captured sweetness, sourness, saltiness, and umami. This was a surprise hit for me, as I didn’t know what kind of salad to expect. This is absolutely a dish I would make myself, and would happily serve to others. We finished our savory bites with the braised green handpies, which my daughter accurately described as tasting like gomen, Ethiopian style collard greens. These handpies featured both collard and kale green, cooked until flavorful and tender, and the greens with mixed with other winter vegetables (like squash). On top of the flaky pastry pockets, there was a drizzle of smoked tomato coulis, the perfect little touch of delicious decoration. The handpies was my daughter’s favorite dish.
Moroccan Nights tea
We finally progressed to the final tier, with the sweet bites. But, before we started our bites, we tried another tea. We decided that the Moroccan Nights herbal tea could be tasty, and we weren’t disappointed. This tea was faintly minty, but mostly a floral, approachable blend that worked well with the sweet items we tried. Our first dessert item was the apple pound cake, that I quickly realized I couldn’t hold in my hands, as the warmth began melting the milk chocolate glazed on the outside of each slice! The mascarpone garnish and light-as-air sweet crisp on top – in the shape of autumn leaf, no less! – was such a pretty and tasty touch. We then tasted the pumpkin pate choux, an airy cake that was hollowed out and filled with a decadent pumpkin filling, and then topped with meringue and toasted until golden brown. This was my absolute favorite sweet of the bunch, and I could have eaten 20 of these!
Before we ate the last sweet bite, we ordered our final tea of the day, Himalayan White. This was an easy to sip, mildly sweet tea that contrasted well with our rich desserts. The final sweet treat with the spiced chocolate cremeux, which is a fascinating take on chocolate ice cream. This is what I’d imagine an upscale interpretation of the standard cherry cordial candy would taste like. This treat was had earthy and warming notes from the spice, the coldness of the ice cream, a touch of bitterness from the dark chocolate brownie bits, and the sweet and tart raspberry coulis encasing all of it. This was my daughter’s favorite and it’s easy to see why: it’s a fun mix of fruit and chocolate!
When we finished our meal, the waiter brought us an additional treat: we got chocolate caramel stuffed tarts to pair with the last cup of tea. Delicious! Such a tasty and unexpected way to end our meal.
As we sipped the last of our tea and looked out of the windows of the tea room, we savored the easy energy of the afternoon. Our time at Floris was a wonderful way to unwind in the afternoon. I can’t wait to return when they debut their winter menu!
After finishing my last full day in Scotland, I tucked into my Radisson Blu bed and got an amazing night’s rest. The next morning, I got up, ate a fantastic breakfast, then called an Uber to take me to Edinburgh Airport. My driver was a lovely gent, who recommended I visit Oban when I return to Scotland (consider it added to my list!). I didn’t take many photos to document my trip home, so I’ll share some random photos from Scotland that weren’t in my previous posts.
Statue of Sir Walter Scott on Princes Street in Edinburgh
When I got to the airport, I checked in easily and then explored the departure area. If you recall, in my first post about my Scotland trip, I mentioned how I had limited shopping and food options in the International arrival gate area. So I was curious whether there was more dining and shopping opportunities in the departure gate. As it turns out, there were FAR more stores and restaurants in this part of the airport. Waiting for my plane was a lot easier with so many things for me to see and do as the time ticked by.
More statues in Edinburgh: this one is David Livingstone
My plane arrived, and I was very thankful for my upgraded seats: I was able to stretch my legs comfortably, and since I always order special meals, I received my dinner earlier than most passengers. I did a bit of writing, movie watching and sleeping on my way back to the States.
Modern restaurant in a gothic building: I never tire of the blend of old and new in Edinburgh
My flight had a layover in New York (JFK), so I had to get on another plane to make my way home. Unfortunately, due to stormy weather, my connecting flight was cancelled. This was a stressful experience: not only was I exhausted beyond belief (the drastic time change between the UK and the East Coast of the US is brutal) but I had to book a hotel and hand wash some of my garments, since the bulk of my clothing was in my checked luggage (which I couldn’t access, since the airline kept it until the connecting flight arrived). My connecting flight wasn’t until the next day, and since the delay was weather related, I didn’t qualify for a refund of my out of pocket costs (more about that later).
Edinburgh Fringe advertisements
I reserved a room at The Fairfield by Marriott New York Manhattan Times Square (that’s a mouthful!) I was glad to get nice accommodations on such short notice. I was tired and a little bedraggled, thanks to the rainstorm that caused me to need a hotel room in the first place. The reception desk was one of my best check ins ever, with a great staff that were so kind and helpful. They were a relief after a challenging day at JFK Airport.
Barriers for Edinburgh Fringe: it states, Scotland, The Perfect Stage. They’re right!
I slept soundly, partially due to jet lag, and partially due to the bed being so comfortable. I woke the next day, grabbed my carry on, and made my way back to JFK. I checked in, got to the seating area, and 90 minutes later, I was on my plane, heading to my hometown.
When I got home, I reached out to Delta and explained the issue, and they graciously granted me goodwill mileage since I incurred significant out of pocket expenses due to the cancellation. I am always so impressed with their customer service, and I’m thankful that the second representative I spoke to was willing to help me in this way. It was a challenging trip back home, but I arrived safely, and for that, I’m thankful.
That’s the last of my weeks in Scotland: what a TIME was had! It was eventful all the way to the very last flight! Thanks for reading, and I will talk to you all soon.
Despite visiting Edinburgh previously, I never got a chance to visit these two sites. I was so excited because I knew that these were the perfect sites to visit with a group: having a guide that is dedicated to sharing history and answering your questions is a top tier experience that isn’t always available to you as a solo traveler. Also, members of tour groups often come up with excellent questions that add richness and deeper understanding to the conversations held while touring.
Banner at St Giles’ Cathedral
St Giles’ Cathedral is a very special place for Clan Graham and the Clan Graham Society (the group I toured with while in Scotland). This is the final resting place for James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, the ancestral head of Clan Graham. This somber site is a stunningly beautiful building, with lots of stained glass and a ton of fascinating history. The church still operates out of this building, as it has done for the past 900 years. You can attend services if you happen to be in Edinburgh: services are held on Sundays and mid-day during the week.
Exterior of St Giles’ Cathedral
Stained glass in the cathedral
Stunning architecture overhead at St Giles’ Cathedral
I was deeply moved as I paid my respects to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. I was amazed by the peaceful and dignified likeness of Graham on his sarcophagus. Richard Graham, North American Chieftain of Clan Graham, and president of Clan Graham Society, provided a stirring recitation of the poem written by James Graham prior to his execution.
The 1st Marquess of Montrose, James Graham
Richard Graham paying his respects to his ancestor
The poem recited was, “Let them bestow on every airth a limb”, a haunting description of the execution that the 1st Marquess knew he’d experience, as well as his assured belief that God would recover his spirit and view him as righteous. This beautiful poem is worth sharing here (courtesy of All Poetry):
Let them bestow on every airth a limb, Then open all my veins, that I may swim To thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake, Then place my par boiled head upon a stake; Scatter my ashes, strow them in the air. Lord, since thou knowest where all these atoms are, I’m hopeful thou’lt recover once my dust, And confident thou’lt raise me with the just.
I also saw that James Graham and some of his descendants were honored at several different memorials within St Giles’.
Memorializing the 1st Marquess of Montrose
Montrose crest in Thistle Chapel
I was amused by the story of Jenny Geddes, the woman who threw a stool at the head of a St. Giles’ minister, in protest of the attempted Anglican-izing of the Scottish church. I was in awe of the Thistle Chapel, where the Order of the Thistle (the chivalrous organization headed by King Charles III) convenes. Hearing the significance of each of the seats and the decorative emblems chosen for the members of the Order was fascinating.
The story of Jenny Geddes
A statue in tribute to Jenny Geddes’ cuttie-stool
Crests in stained glass in the meeting area for the Order of the Thistle
The spectacular ceiling in Thistle Chapel
Details above the seats in Thistle Chapel
This beautiful cathedral also had the honor of accommodating Queen Elizabeth II’s body for nearly 24 hours as she was relocated from Balmoral Castle to Buckingham Palace. A couple of years ago, I had the honor to pay my respects to Her Majesty at her final resting place in Windsor Castle. I did not know that her body had also traveled to Edinburgh en route to Westminster Abbey.
Memorial commemorating where HM Queen Elizabeth II laid en route to London
One unique memorial plaque that I saw was the one to Elsie Maud Inglis, a physician and suffragist who founded the Scottish Women’s Hospitals for Foreign Services. Her organization served extensively during World War I, and supported the Serbian army during this time. Inglis is honored in both Edinburgh and in Serbia.
Memorial honoring Elsie Maud Ingrid
And what Scottish historical site would be complete without a tribute to national treasure Robert Burns? The stained glass window dedicated to Burns is a delight to the eyes.
Memorial plaque honoring Robert Burns
Burns memorial stained glass window at St Giles’ Cathedral
After leaving St. Giles’ Cathedral, we headed over to Edinburgh Castle. These two significant landmarks are a short distance from one another. I really loved Edinburgh Castle, and it was a treat to see the Scottish crown jewels (sadly, we were not allowed to photograph them). Seeing this incredible site, where King James the VI was born, made a lasting impression on me.
Ticket to enter Edinburgh Castle
One of the structures at Edinburgh Castle
Sleek, elegant lion sculpture at Edinburgh Castle
When we finished touring the castle, we met up with a friend living in Edinburgh and had a great lunch at a local restaurant, The Mussel and Steak Bar. I don’t like mussels, but I enjoy most other seafood, so I knew I’d find something I like. I had an AMAZING crab lunch that was massive, messy and delicious.
Crab dinner in Edinburgh
We finished the evening with a dinner and performance at Ghillie Dhu, where a bagpiper and highland dancers entertained us. We ate a great dinner and I tried real haggis for the first time. We ended the night with a little bit of ceilidh dancing.
My haggis bon bon at Ghillie Dhu
My last full day in Edinburgh was incredible and memorable. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful city, but I also missed my family, and I was ready to see them and to get back to my routine.
I’ll talk about my interesting return back to my hometown in my next post. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
Edinburgh is such a magical city. When we arrived, it was the early evening, which means we had time to walk around and explore a bit. I was thrilled when I saw one of my favorite things in Scotland: Harris tweed coats and accessories.
Love this pretty pink tweed
Love these gorgeous coats and accessories
We stayed at the Radisson Blu, a sleek and modern hotel located in Edinburgh’s city centre. We returned to our hotel after grabbing a small fast food dinner. When we got back to the room, I could finally take it all in: the rooms were nothing like the boutique hotels we were in for the majority of the trip. We had elevators, bright lighting, spa facilities: this hotel was like stepping back into the modern day (after enjoying the history and charm of yesteryear). We were exhausted from the busy day we enjoyed, so we slept well and got our rest. That next day, my friend and I were still a bit tired, and opted out of the scheduled activities for the day. We slept in, then walked around Edinburgh. Oh, and one more thing: we were in Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival, so there was plenty of outdoor activity as we walked around near our hotel.
Walking the streets of Edinburgh
We missed breakfast, but walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch. We decided to try David Bann, a vegetarian restaurant. I order a mint tea, a salad, and the wild mushroom bake. I finished with a dessert. Everything was so delicious! I hate how quickly I ate my meal: I barely got any pictures. That being said, I highly recommend that you all stop by if you’re in Edinburgh (if you’d like me to do a review on David Bann specifically, I can make that a separate post).
The menus at David Bann
Fresh mint tea
My salad
Delectable dessert
While walking around on Princes Street, we ended up at Whittard of Chelsea, where I couldn’t resist buying Banoffee Pie and Sticky Toffee Pudding flavored hot chocolate. I spotted some more gorgeous traditional Scottish clothing and also made my way to shops that I enjoy at home (like Zara). We were out for several hours, so we decided to eat dinner before heading to our evening activity.
Display at Whittard of Chelsea
Perfumes at Zara
Kilts and tartans on display
On our schedules for the evening was the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a dazzling display of dance, music, rifle and sword artistry, and precision marching. It was a thrilling show that is fun for the whole family. The spectacular show ended with an incredible combined routine with all of the participating military forces, and an array of fireworks light the sky up.
Waiting for the show to start
Military in formation
More performers at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
Light display at the end of the show
More light displays
When we left the performance, I felt like I was buzzing from the excitement! To say that I enjoyed it would be an understatement. That being said, all of the walking, shopping, and taking in the street performers left me sufficiently tired. I fell asleep with no issue. I needed to get enough rest so that I could do all of the activities for the next day, our last full day in Scotland.
That’s all for day 1 in Edinburgh. I’m looking forward to sharing day 2, my final full day in Scotland, shortly. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
In the last post, I shared about my time in Inverness and Montrose (which were difficult stops for me, since I had a bad cold during that time). Thankfully, I was starting to feel better by the time we got to Edinburgh, and not a moment too soon: Edinburgh is one of my favorite cities of all time!
Before we got to Edinburgh, however, we had a full day of activity ahead. After eating breakfast and checking out of The Links Hotel, we journeyed to our first stop, Scone Palace. Located in Perthshire, this stunning castle is the place where Scottish kings were crowned for hundreds of years. Before entering the palace, you can see the Stone of Destiny, the symbolic stone where these newly crowned kings would sit, in recognition of their reign. One such king is MacBeth (yes, that one), who was crowned in 1040. The stone is surrounded in mystery, as the original disappeared years ago and has never been located. That being said, there is great lore about both the Stone, as well as the rest of the palace.
Outside of Scone Palace
Entrance to Scone Palace
Palace window surrounded by lush ivy
The Stone of Destiny
Macbeth memorial plate
Scone Palace banner
Closeup of family crests: the Graham crest is depicted here
Scone Palace is full of incredible artifacts, none of which I could photograph, sadly. But, if you’re interested in the history of Dido Elizabeth Belle, then Scone Palace is a must-visit: the original painting of Belle hangs in one of their galleries. If you want a photograph the painting, you’ll either have to pay for it in the palace gift shop, or you can go to Kenwood House in London (which is probably a little easier to get to, if we’re being honest) and photograph the excellent recreation that they have on display.
Posing with a brochure that features the painting of Dido Elizabeth Belle
This site was great for photographs on the outside, as the grounds were absolutely beautiful. Also, there are wild peafowl on site, so you can see those beautiful birds as you enjoy your visit. If you’re in Perthshire, Scone Palace is a must see!
Bell hanging from a tree at Scone Palace
This statue blends the highland coo with peacock feather coloring
Details of PeaCOOck statue
Peacock decor at Scone Palace
We stopped for lunch in downtown Perth, and ended up being treated to a parade! I wish I had taken more pictures: at this point, I was hungry to the point of distraction, so I didn’t feel like photographing the parade participants. However, what we saw was the Perth Salute, a local festival that celebrated the military, complete with a parade that features military and civilian bands, as well as local performers of all backgrounds (we saw quite a few South American countries represented in the parade). It was a fantastic parade and brought out a lot of the community.
We decided to eat at The Bulldog Frog, and that was a fantastic choice. I ordered the avocado and tomato toastie, which had fries and homemade slaw on the side. The food was so delicious, and I could finally think clearly after feeling ravenous for the previous hour. Once our lunch break was done, we were off to our next stop, Innerpeffray Library.
Inside of The Bulldog Frog
My tasty lunch
After riding about 30 minutes, we arrived at the pastoral community where Innerpeffray Library is located. This stop was one of my absolute favorites. As a bibliophile, I don’t just love to read books: I also love learning the history of the guardians of books, as well as how books and literacy were promoted through the ages. This was the first lending library in Scotland, starting more than 300 years ago. Innerpeffray’s collection includes an extensive amount of books, including the personal Bible of James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose, and the first head of Clan Graham.
Books at Innerpeffray Library
Inspirational words – Visualizing the known world and the New World
The library also has an interesting history that includes one of the earliest examples of gender equity in literacy and education. The on-site school house taught both boys and girls (in a time where formal education for girls was considered unnecessary in many cultures), and one of the fascinating entries in the Borrower’s Register (the logbook of people who borrowed books) includes an entry for a girl who worked for a landowner who borrowed a book on his behalf, but also borrowed a book for herself to read. I was touched to hear how, even at a time where social and gender perspectives were firmly favoring male members of the upper class, resources such as books were still made available to those that were disadvantaged. A bit of fun trivia is that this library has the smallest book in the world, measuring just 5 mm x 5 mm.
Details about the smallest book in the world
A number of historical texts at Innerpeffray
Old logbooks of book borrowers
More incredible books at Innerpeffray
We chatted extensively with the current Keeper of the Books (a role that has been continually staffed for hundreds of years), whose enthusiasm and knowledge were unmatched. We then toured the chapel and were blown away by the beautiful remains of the original decor.
Inside the chapel
Stunning beams overhead
Details overhead
Peeking from the overhead space
Outside, I took photos of the rural setting: it was a beautiful, sunny, picturesque day. I vowed right then to return to Innerpeffray Library to tour again, and hopefully to spend some more time in nearby downtown Perth. This was a perfect stop on a perfect day, and I can’t say enough good things about it.
Innerpeffray heritage trail
Viewing the grounds
Closeup of a beautiful flower
Exterior of Innerpeffray Library
Once we left the library, we journeyed on to Edinburgh, and checked into the Radisson Blu Hotel. Edinburgh is a lively, incredible city, and we just so happened to be there during Fringe. There’s so much more to share, so I’ll have to continue in another post! Stay tuned for the next installment, and thanks for reading!
In my previous posts, I shared my reflections on my time in Stonehaven, Aboyne and Glasgow, Scotland. As the tour progressed, our next stop was Stirling, the “heart of Scotland” (their words, not mine, though I don’t disagree).
Not where I stayed, but a gorgeous building in Stirling
After a fantastic day at Mugdock Castle and a stop by a roadside shop in the Trossachs, where I was able to feed and pet some highland coos, we rode for about 50 minutes until we got to Stirling . We were greeted by a statue of Scottish poet Robert Burns.
Statue of Robert Burns
Soon after reaching downtown Stirling, we checked into Hotel Colessio. This charming boutique hotel was picturesque and perfectly located. It was a short walking distance to two central attractions: downtown Stirling on one side and Stirling Castle on the other. The rooms here, like the rooms at each hotel on this tour, were clean, comfortable and charming, and the meals were delicious.
Our hotel, Hotel Colessio
After dinner and getting a good night’s rest, we started the first full day in Stirling at the Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre. Our enthusiastic guide described the battle and the contributing factors in great detail, and he managed to strike that perfect balance between knowledge and entertainment. As someone who (prior to this trip) knew very little about Scotland’s history, I was happy to have guides at each of our stops who eagerly shared information with me, as well as my wonderful tour companions who added additional depth and flavor to these discussions.
Statue of Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn
I know precious little about military logistics and strategy, but hearing how Robert the Bruce won the Battle of Bannockburn by leveraging topographical knowledge was thrilling. Once we finished the discussion portion of the tour, we went outside and saw the statue of Robert the Bruce, situated in a courtyard that was encircled by another artwork, a highly textured brick wall that was topped by verses of “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie.
Crests at Bannockburn Centre
Shields for children to play with
Books about Robert the Bruce in the Bannockburn gift shop
One verse of “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie
Another verse in, “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie
When we finished our time at Bannockburn, it was time for lunch, so we stopped in at Nicky-Tams Bar and Bothy, a pub nearby Hotel Colessio. This 300-year-old pub is the perfect stop after a morning of exploring. I order the vegetarian haggis, one of my favorite dishes when in Scotland. I love tasting different versions of veggie haggis to see which ones taste most similar to the real deal (I’ve also tried real haggis a few times, just to base my comparison). The neeps and tatties accompaniment at Nicky-Tams was unique: instead of offering it as two separate sides, the veggies are combined into a single mash and served as a singular item. The dish was tasty and hearty. I also tried Jubel beer, a Cornish beer that features fruit flavors. It was delicious and refreshing. I will certainly return to Nicky-Tams in the future, since they are known for live music in the evenings and, on this trip, I was unable to take full advantage of that.
Veggie haggis, neeps and tatties at Nicky Tam
My first time trying Jubel beer
One side of the Nicky-Tams album wall
The other side of the album wall
Once we were finished with lunch, we went to Stirling Distillery, where we met the Lord Provost of Stirling, Elaine Watterson. I wish I’d taking more photos at the intimate distillery, one of the smallest in Scotland. Because whisky must be aged at least 3 years and one day in order to be labeled “whisky”, and, the distillery was still aging their next batch, we were unable to try their whisky. However, they happily conducted a tasting where we tried a few gins and whiskys from nearby distilleries instead.
At Stirling Distillery
After visiting the distillery, we were off to Stirling Castle. This childhood home of Mary, Queen of Scots, was stately and picturesque. One of my favorite features, other than the meticulous grounds, was the Stirling Heads Gallery, a vast collection of oak carvings, both painted and plain, depicting some of the most prominent people of Scottish history. These nearly 500 year old portraits were originally used to decorate the ceiling of a room in Stirling Castle, but now they are on display for us to enjoy.
At Stirling Castle
Closeup of the castle
Statue of Robert the Bruce at Stirling Castle
The Stirling Heads Gallery
Entering the gallery
Detailed horse in the gallery
The heads that are part of the overall collection
The Prince’s Tower, the original nursery for a number of Scottish royals
This full day of activity ended with us returning to Hotel Colessio for dinner, and a deep, restful sleep followed.
The next day, we ate breakfast and dressed well because we were headed to Buchanan Castle Golf Club for the Clan Graham Annual General Meeting (AGM). At this event, we were greeted by His Grace, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose, descendant of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Standing beside His Grace, in the soft, misty rain, was a bagpiper, welcoming us in the warmest Scottish way.
Buchanan Castle ruins in the distance
Clan Graham crest
Meticulously maintained grounds at the Buchanan Country Club
We ate a lovely meal at the club, and then the AGM occurred, where members voted on organizational proposal. We took some great photos on the grounds of the club, and then journeyed back to our hotel.
When we returned to the hotel, we had another fantastic dinner, and we also had the Mugdock Auction. We brought items and submitted them for a silent auction, with all proceeds being contributed to the Mugdock preservation efforts. The ballroom of Hotel Colessio was perfectly charming and well suited for the auction. We enjoyed songs, traditional highland dance, bagpiping, and an entertaining auction. We had such a good time together!
Chandelier in Hotel Colessio event hall
This was our last night at Hotel Colessio. After the auction and dinner, we returned to our rooms and began to pack our things. The next day would whisk us off to the next cities: Inverness and Montrose!
Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for the next post on my summer vacation!
Instead of taking the LNER train, we rode ScotRail. We weren’t able to upgrade our tickets for this leg of our trip, but we ended up with good and comfortable window seats. We were joined by an adorable young married couple – Lola and Hal – on their way to Glasgow for a fun weekend. We had a fantastic conversation and enjoyed the sights as we chugged along for two hours.
We arrived at the Glasgow train station and started the walk to the Maldron Hotel. This was our first time at a modern hotel in Scotland: the hotels we stayed in before (and after) this one were mostly boutique style and more historical. The sleek and modern decor was fun and fresh. We dropped off our bags, freshened up, and prepared to meet our tour group for dinner.
My bed at the Maldron Hotel Glasgow
Enjoying the room
Our tour was hosted by Clan Graham Society, the organization endorsed by the head of Clan Graham, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose. The tour was organized to commemorate Clan Graham Society’s 50th Anniversary and was coordinated by several members of Clan Graham – specifically, Kate Graham and Kiersten Graham Dick, along with Gordon Graham – and every detail was considered with care. All members of the group, except for a few folks like me, have a connection to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Clan Graham is extraordinarily warm and welcoming, and I joined the organization as a friend of Clan Graham. My friend, who was my roommate for the entirety of the trip, has a Graham-affiliated surname, so she’s a member of Clan Graham and encouraged me to join. I’m so thankful for her encouraging me to become part of the group!
In our ten day tour, we visited sites that were historically relevant to Scotland as a whole, as well as sites relevant to Graham history specifically. Every other day or so, we traveled to another town or city, each one significant in its own right.
Exterior of the Maldron Hotel
We enjoyed delightful meals at the Maldron each day during our stay (we were there two nights). On the first full day in Glasgow, we were supposed to go to the Isle of Arran, but the weather was unfavorable (one of the strongest storms of the summer happened on this day). While the group made alternate arrangements, my friend and I – still quite tired from our time in Stonehaven and Aboyne – decided to sleep in and explore Glasgow in the afternoon instead.
While walking around, we came across many interesting and old buildings that were photo-worthy. But, despite Glasgow being full of gothic, Victorian and art nouveau structures, the city has a distinctly modern, “concrete jungle” feel. It’s undeniably metropolitan energy gives it an edge and pulse that wholly unlike the laidback energy of Edinburgh. To be frank, I love both cities and will happily return many times, if I’m able.
Walking around in Glasgow
Beautiful architecture in Glasgow
After grabbing a delicious hot chocolate from Hotel Chocolat (complete with chocolate whipped cream rose, no less), we stumbled across Frasers department store, and I became an instant fan. As a lover of the department stores of yesteryear, Frasers reminded me of the kind of stores that are becoming rarer to find stateside. It was so nice to walk in and get an experience similar to Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Liberty or Selfridges. I found an amazing formal gown that I had to purchase, and had a wonderful chat with one of the sales reps at Frasers. I’m so pleased that we stumbled upon this store, because none of the other cities or towns on our tour had a Frasers.
Hotel Chocolat is always a must when in the UK
People Make Glasgow – I agree!
Once we finished shopping, we made our way back to the hotel. I snapped photos of interesting things I saw on our walk, including Nelson Mandela Place, a street named after the South African former President, Nobel Peace Prize recipient, and anti-apartheid activist. I also saw shops and architectural details that I loved.
Snapshot of Nelson Mandela Place street sign
Fun street art
Restaurant I want to try when I return to Glasgow
Before we walked the final block to our hotel, we stopped off at the DoubleTree by Hilton to check out their restaurant, Cask & Clyde. The menu had a fair amount of options, and I found a couple of things that looked good (namely, the soup of the day – lentil – and macaroni and cheese). I also enjoyed an old fashioned while I waited for my food.
Menu at Cask & Clyde
My soup and macaroni and cheese
My old fashioned
I enjoyed my Cask & Clyde experience, and will definitely return when I get back to Glasgow. After we were full, we returned to our rooms and relaxed for a few hours before dinner.
Neon sign outside of Cask & Clyde
The next day, we loaded our luggage onto the tour bus in preparation for checkout. Our bags stayed on the bus as we journeyed to our first stop on day 2: Mugdock Castle. This was the original stronghold for Clan Graham more than 800 years ago. The castle is now mostly in ruins, but Mugdock Country Park is still an incredible site and well worth the visit. The castle is about a 15 minute walk from the entrance. On the trail to the castle, you will see the remains of Craigend Zoo, as well as many dog owners taking their friendly pups for walks.
At Mugdock Visitor Centre
Ruins of Craigend Zoo
When we arrived at the castle, Clan Graham’s chieftain, Richard Graham, presented the caretakers of Mugdock Castle with a 50th anniversary commemorative plate. It was a touching ceremony and I’m so glad I got to witness it. Inside the castle, there are a number of Clan Graham artifacts, including a number of pieces emblazoned with royal crests. The site is a beautiful one that is listed by the Scottish Tourism Board. While the day was misty and cool, the walks to and from the castle were refreshing and picturesque.
Mugdock Castle
Sign depicting the original structure of Mugdock Castle
Mugdock Castle timeline and sketch of James Graham 1st Marquess of Montrose
Desk emblazoned with a crest
Closeup of crest which roughly translates to “Royal and United as One”
Colorized sketch of Mugdock
History of persecution of suspected witches in Scotland
Biography of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose
Graham Room acknowledgement
We returned to the main entrance building and warmed up with lentil soup, sandwiches and coffee and tea. The guides graciously answered our questions and gave us a delightful end to a fantastic day at Mugdock.
Chuckling with the professional actor outside of Mugdock Castle
Snacks in the meeting area
Graham tartans
Tartans from a different angle
We boarded the tour bus and made our way to the next city on our tour, Stirling. However, we stopped momentarily at Loch Katrine, then followed that with a later stop at a local shop which had some highland coos in a neighboring field, and I got the treat of a lifetime when I was able to feed those sweet coos!
Riding from Mugdock
Roadside heather
More pictures of the local flora
Pretty pink thistle
Flower closeup
Gift shop at Loch Katrine
Cruise poster at Loch Katrine
At Loch Katrine
Stop near the Trossachs and seeing highland coos
Another coo photo
This full day of activity was only a glimpse of the magic to come on my Scotland vacation! I’m excited to share with you the next part in a few days, where I will discuss my time in Stirling. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
Bronze Butterfly 