Beauty Heals And Gives Us Wings
Now that I’m getting back into the habit of posting blogs, I’m excited to announced that there is NEW Fibro Friday content coming!
I’ve been researching herbs, developing new pain relief oils, trying different therapeutic practices, tinkering with my diet, and giving myself lots of time to figure out what works, and what doesn’t. I can’t wait to tell you all about the discoveries I’ve made over the past year(ish)!
Stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
Recently, I had a chance to dine at Floris, the tea room at Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA). I’ve dined at Floris before, but since they change their menus seasonally, I was due for another visit.
The restaurant is currently featuring the fall menu, which highlighted warm spices, tender brassicas, and autumnal squashes. I went with my daughter, and we both enjoyed the signature tea, which features all of the listed bites and unlimited amounts of any of the non-premium teas (we had to try a premium tea for good measure).
The experience started with us being seated in a lovely room that was a bit further back from the main entrance. Our space was punctuated with a grand Christmas tree that was white with silver accents. The room itself was a deep teal color, with light multicolored wooden floors and gold accents upon the walls. As we took in the beauty of our space, we were greeted by our waiter, who brought us menus and filled our water glasses.
After learning that we could select two teas to start, we discussed which teas sounded most interesting. We decided to try the Marie Antoinette tea as well as the Milk Oolong premium tea (which has a $6 USD upchage per teapot). Our tea arrived while we waited for our food. The Marie Antoinette was fruity, bright and softly floral, with none of the bitterness that can occur with many other black tea varieties. This was probably my favorite tea of the afternoon. The Milk Oolong was just as described: creamy, smooth, and buttery. I can confirm that this tea had notes of milkiness without any actual dairy being included. I was impressed at the subtle but impactful flavor profile on this tea.
We were brought a basket of biscuits and scones, along with jam and butter. These were tasty, and a great way to start our tea. The scones featured a swirl of additional flavoring (I don’t know what it was: the items were brought to us while I washed my hands, and I forgot to ask our waiter about it). The scones were softer and sweeter than the biscuits, and both were perfect with our first two pots of tea.
Our food arrived and it was an impressive presentation. We started our meal with the fried saltines and pimento cheese savory bites (the top level). Rich, a little salty, and a lot crunch, these delicious cheesy bites were perfectly balanced by the tomato conserva garnish, which left a little sweetness and brightness after each bite. We followed up with the baked brie bites (top level), which had little bits of mushroom, pepper jelly, and a sprig of micro greens on top. This is a nice, standard tea dish: soft baked cheese in phyllo dough, with a few other ingredients for more flavor and texture. This is one that would be fairly easy to recreate at home, and would be a tasty hit with your guests!
We progressed to the roasted sweet potato salad, which had a mixture of cubed sweet potatoes, feta cheese, bits of sauteed kale, and cranberries. The salad was served in a single endive leaf, adding a touch of tasty bitterness to a dish that perfectly captured sweetness, sourness, saltiness, and umami. This was a surprise hit for me, as I didn’t know what kind of salad to expect. This is absolutely a dish I would make myself, and would happily serve to others. We finished our savory bites with the braised green handpies, which my daughter accurately described as tasting like gomen, Ethiopian style collard greens. These handpies featured both collard and kale green, cooked until flavorful and tender, and the greens with mixed with other winter vegetables (like squash). On top of the flaky pastry pockets, there was a drizzle of smoked tomato coulis, the perfect little touch of delicious decoration. The handpies was my daughter’s favorite dish.
We finally progressed to the final tier, with the sweet bites. But, before we started our bites, we tried another tea. We decided that the Moroccan Nights herbal tea could be tasty, and we weren’t disappointed. This tea was faintly minty, but mostly a floral, approachable blend that worked well with the sweet items we tried. Our first dessert item was the apple pound cake, that I quickly realized I couldn’t hold in my hands, as the warmth began melting the milk chocolate glazed on the outside of each slice! The mascarpone garnish and light-as-air sweet crisp on top – in the shape of autumn leaf, no less! – was such a pretty and tasty touch. We then tasted the pumpkin pate choux, an airy cake that was hollowed out and filled with a decadent pumpkin filling, and then topped with meringue and toasted until golden brown. This was my absolute favorite sweet of the bunch, and I could have eaten 20 of these!
Before we ate the last sweet bite, we ordered our final tea of the day, Himalayan White. This was an easy to sip, mildly sweet tea that contrasted well with our rich desserts. The final sweet treat with the spiced chocolate cremeux, which is a fascinating take on chocolate ice cream. This is what I’d imagine an upscale interpretation of the standard cherry cordial candy would taste like. This treat was had earthy and warming notes from the spice, the coldness of the ice cream, a touch of bitterness from the dark chocolate brownie bits, and the sweet and tart raspberry coulis encasing all of it. This was my daughter’s favorite and it’s easy to see why: it’s a fun mix of fruit and chocolate!
When we finished our meal, the waiter brought us an additional treat: we got chocolate caramel stuffed tarts to pair with the last cup of tea. Delicious! Such a tasty and unexpected way to end our meal.
As we sipped the last of our tea and looked out of the windows of the tea room, we savored the easy energy of the afternoon. Our time at Floris was a wonderful way to unwind in the afternoon. I can’t wait to return when they debut their winter menu!
After finishing my last full day in Scotland, I tucked into my Radisson Blu bed and got an amazing night’s rest. The next morning, I got up, ate a fantastic breakfast, then called an Uber to take me to Edinburgh Airport. My driver was a lovely gent, who recommended I visit Oban when I return to Scotland (consider it added to my list!). I didn’t take many photos to document my trip home, so I’ll share some random photos from Scotland that weren’t in my previous posts.
When I got to the airport, I checked in easily and then explored the departure area. If you recall, in my first post about my Scotland trip, I mentioned how I had limited shopping and food options in the International arrival gate area. So I was curious whether there was more dining and shopping opportunities in the departure gate. As it turns out, there were FAR more stores and restaurants in this part of the airport. Waiting for my plane was a lot easier with so many things for me to see and do as the time ticked by.
My plane arrived, and I was very thankful for my upgraded seats: I was able to stretch my legs comfortably, and since I always order special meals, I received my dinner earlier than most passengers. I did a bit of writing, movie watching and sleeping on my way back to the States.
My flight had a layover in New York (JFK), so I had to get on another plane to make my way home. Unfortunately, due to stormy weather, my connecting flight was cancelled. This was a stressful experience: not only was I exhausted beyond belief (the drastic time change between the UK and the East Coast of the US is brutal) but I had to book a hotel and hand wash some of my garments, since the bulk of my clothing was in my checked luggage (which I couldn’t access, since the airline kept it until the connecting flight arrived). My connecting flight wasn’t until the next day, and since the delay was weather related, I didn’t qualify for a refund of my out of pocket costs (more about that later).
I reserved a room at The Fairfield by Marriott New York Manhattan Times Square (that’s a mouthful!) I was glad to get nice accommodations on such short notice. I was tired and a little bedraggled, thanks to the rainstorm that caused me to need a hotel room in the first place. The reception desk was one of my best check ins ever, with a great staff that were so kind and helpful. They were a relief after a challenging day at JFK Airport.
I slept soundly, partially due to jet lag, and partially due to the bed being so comfortable. I woke the next day, grabbed my carry on, and made my way back to JFK. I checked in, got to the seating area, and 90 minutes later, I was on my plane, heading to my hometown.
When I got home, I reached out to Delta and explained the issue, and they graciously granted me goodwill mileage since I incurred significant out of pocket expenses due to the cancellation. I am always so impressed with their customer service, and I’m thankful that the second representative I spoke to was willing to help me in this way. It was a challenging trip back home, but I arrived safely, and for that, I’m thankful.
That’s the last of my weeks in Scotland: what a TIME was had! It was eventful all the way to the very last flight! Thanks for reading, and I will talk to you all soon.
After an amazing day exploring Edinburgh, finishing off with an evening at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, I rested and prepared for the last full day in the city, which included time at St. Giles’ Cathedral and Edinburgh Castle.
Despite visiting Edinburgh previously, I never got a chance to visit these two sites. I was so excited because I knew that these were the perfect sites to visit with a group: having a guide that is dedicated to sharing history and answering your questions is a top tier experience that isn’t always available to you as a solo traveler. Also, members of tour groups often come up with excellent questions that add richness and deeper understanding to the conversations held while touring.
St Giles’ Cathedral is a very special place for Clan Graham and the Clan Graham Society (the group I toured with while in Scotland). This is the final resting place for James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, the ancestral head of Clan Graham. This somber site is a stunningly beautiful building, with lots of stained glass and a ton of fascinating history. The church still operates out of this building, as it has done for the past 900 years. You can attend services if you happen to be in Edinburgh: services are held on Sundays and mid-day during the week.
I was deeply moved as I paid my respects to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. I was amazed by the peaceful and dignified likeness of Graham on his sarcophagus. Richard Graham, North American Chieftain of Clan Graham, and president of Clan Graham Society, provided a stirring recitation of the poem written by James Graham prior to his execution.
The poem recited was, “Let them bestow on every airth a limb”, a haunting description of the execution that the 1st Marquess knew he’d experience, as well as his assured belief that God would recover his spirit and view him as righteous. This beautiful poem is worth sharing here (courtesy of All Poetry):
Let them bestow on every airth a limb,
Then open all my veins, that I may swim
To thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake,
Then place my par boiled head upon a stake;
Scatter my ashes, strow them in the air.
Lord, since thou knowest where all these atoms are,
I’m hopeful thou’lt recover once my dust,
And confident thou’lt raise me with the just.
I also saw that James Graham and some of his descendants were honored at several different memorials within St Giles’.
I was amused by the story of Jenny Geddes, the woman who threw a stool at the head of a St. Giles’ minister, in protest of the attempted Anglican-izing of the Scottish church. I was in awe of the Thistle Chapel, where the Order of the Thistle (the chivalrous organization headed by King Charles III) convenes. Hearing the significance of each of the seats and the decorative emblems chosen for the members of the Order was fascinating.
This beautiful cathedral also had the honor of accommodating Queen Elizabeth II’s body for nearly 24 hours as she was relocated from Balmoral Castle to Buckingham Palace. A couple of years ago, I had the honor to pay my respects to Her Majesty at her final resting place in Windsor Castle. I did not know that her body had also traveled to Edinburgh en route to Westminster Abbey.
One unique memorial plaque that I saw was the one to Elsie Maud Inglis, a physician and suffragist who founded the Scottish Women’s Hospitals for Foreign Services. Her organization served extensively during World War I, and supported the Serbian army during this time. Inglis is honored in both Edinburgh and in Serbia.
And what Scottish historical site would be complete without a tribute to national treasure Robert Burns? The stained glass window dedicated to Burns is a delight to the eyes.
After leaving St. Giles’ Cathedral, we headed over to Edinburgh Castle. These two significant landmarks are a short distance from one another. I really loved Edinburgh Castle, and it was a treat to see the Scottish crown jewels (sadly, we were not allowed to photograph them). Seeing this incredible site, where King James the VI was born, made a lasting impression on me.
When we finished touring the castle, we met up with a friend living in Edinburgh and had a great lunch at a local restaurant, The Mussel and Steak Bar. I don’t like mussels, but I enjoy most other seafood, so I knew I’d find something I like. I had an AMAZING crab lunch that was massive, messy and delicious.
We finished the evening with a dinner and performance at Ghillie Dhu, where a bagpiper and highland dancers entertained us. We ate a great dinner and I tried real haggis for the first time. We ended the night with a little bit of ceilidh dancing.
My last full day in Edinburgh was incredible and memorable. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful city, but I also missed my family, and I was ready to see them and to get back to my routine.
I’ll talk about my interesting return back to my hometown in my next post. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
After spending a fantastic day at Scone Palace, downtown Perth, and Innerpeffray Library, we were off to Edinburgh, our last city on this Scotland tour.
Edinburgh is such a magical city. When we arrived, it was the early evening, which means we had time to walk around and explore a bit. I was thrilled when I saw one of my favorite things in Scotland: Harris tweed coats and accessories.
We stayed at the Radisson Blu, a sleek and modern hotel located in Edinburgh’s city centre. We returned to our hotel after grabbing a small fast food dinner. When we got back to the room, I could finally take it all in: the rooms were nothing like the boutique hotels we were in for the majority of the trip. We had elevators, bright lighting, spa facilities: this hotel was like stepping back into the modern day (after enjoying the history and charm of yesteryear). We were exhausted from the busy day we enjoyed, so we slept well and got our rest. That next day, my friend and I were still a bit tired, and opted out of the scheduled activities for the day. We slept in, then walked around Edinburgh. Oh, and one more thing: we were in Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival, so there was plenty of outdoor activity as we walked around near our hotel.
We missed breakfast, but walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch. We decided to try David Bann, a vegetarian restaurant. I order a mint tea, a salad, and the wild mushroom bake. I finished with a dessert. Everything was so delicious! I hate how quickly I ate my meal: I barely got any pictures. That being said, I highly recommend that you all stop by if you’re in Edinburgh (if you’d like me to do a review on David Bann specifically, I can make that a separate post).
While walking around on Princes Street, we ended up at Whittard of Chelsea, where I couldn’t resist buying Banoffee Pie and Sticky Toffee Pudding flavored hot chocolate. I spotted some more gorgeous traditional Scottish clothing and also made my way to shops that I enjoy at home (like Zara). We were out for several hours, so we decided to eat dinner before heading to our evening activity.
On our schedules for the evening was the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a dazzling display of dance, music, rifle and sword artistry, and precision marching. It was a thrilling show that is fun for the whole family. The spectacular show ended with an incredible combined routine with all of the participating military forces, and an array of fireworks light the sky up.
When we left the performance, I felt like I was buzzing from the excitement! To say that I enjoyed it would be an understatement. That being said, all of the walking, shopping, and taking in the street performers left me sufficiently tired. I fell asleep with no issue. I needed to get enough rest so that I could do all of the activities for the next day, our last full day in Scotland.
That’s all for day 1 in Edinburgh. I’m looking forward to sharing day 2, my final full day in Scotland, shortly. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
In the last post, I shared about my time in Inverness and Montrose (which were difficult stops for me, since I had a bad cold during that time). Thankfully, I was starting to feel better by the time we got to Edinburgh, and not a moment too soon: Edinburgh is one of my favorite cities of all time!
Before we got to Edinburgh, however, we had a full day of activity ahead. After eating breakfast and checking out of The Links Hotel, we journeyed to our first stop, Scone Palace. Located in Perthshire, this stunning castle is the place where Scottish kings were crowned for hundreds of years. Before entering the palace, you can see the Stone of Destiny, the symbolic stone where these newly crowned kings would sit, in recognition of their reign. One such king is MacBeth (yes, that one), who was crowned in 1040. The stone is surrounded in mystery, as the original disappeared years ago and has never been located. That being said, there is great lore about both the Stone, as well as the rest of the palace.
Scone Palace is full of incredible artifacts, none of which I could photograph, sadly. But, if you’re interested in the history of Dido Elizabeth Belle, then Scone Palace is a must-visit: the original painting of Belle hangs in one of their galleries. If you want a photograph the painting, you’ll either have to pay for it in the palace gift shop, or you can go to Kenwood House in London (which is probably a little easier to get to, if we’re being honest) and photograph the excellent recreation that they have on display.
This site was great for photographs on the outside, as the grounds were absolutely beautiful. Also, there are wild peafowl on site, so you can see those beautiful birds as you enjoy your visit. If you’re in Perthshire, Scone Palace is a must see!
We stopped for lunch in downtown Perth, and ended up being treated to a parade! I wish I had taken more pictures: at this point, I was hungry to the point of distraction, so I didn’t feel like photographing the parade participants. However, what we saw was the Perth Salute, a local festival that celebrated the military, complete with a parade that features military and civilian bands, as well as local performers of all backgrounds (we saw quite a few South American countries represented in the parade). It was a fantastic parade and brought out a lot of the community.
We decided to eat at The Bulldog Frog, and that was a fantastic choice. I ordered the avocado and tomato toastie, which had fries and homemade slaw on the side. The food was so delicious, and I could finally think clearly after feeling ravenous for the previous hour. Once our lunch break was done, we were off to our next stop, Innerpeffray Library.
After riding about 30 minutes, we arrived at the pastoral community where Innerpeffray Library is located. This stop was one of my absolute favorites. As a bibliophile, I don’t just love to read books: I also love learning the history of the guardians of books, as well as how books and literacy were promoted through the ages. This was the first lending library in Scotland, starting more than 300 years ago. Innerpeffray’s collection includes an extensive amount of books, including the personal Bible of James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose, and the first head of Clan Graham.
The library also has an interesting history that includes one of the earliest examples of gender equity in literacy and education. The on-site school house taught both boys and girls (in a time where formal education for girls was considered unnecessary in many cultures), and one of the fascinating entries in the Borrower’s Register (the logbook of people who borrowed books) includes an entry for a girl who worked for a landowner who borrowed a book on his behalf, but also borrowed a book for herself to read. I was touched to hear how, even at a time where social and gender perspectives were firmly favoring male members of the upper class, resources such as books were still made available to those that were disadvantaged. A bit of fun trivia is that this library has the smallest book in the world, measuring just 5 mm x 5 mm.
We chatted extensively with the current Keeper of the Books (a role that has been continually staffed for hundreds of years), whose enthusiasm and knowledge were unmatched. We then toured the chapel and were blown away by the beautiful remains of the original decor.
Outside, I took photos of the rural setting: it was a beautiful, sunny, picturesque day. I vowed right then to return to Innerpeffray Library to tour again, and hopefully to spend some more time in nearby downtown Perth. This was a perfect stop on a perfect day, and I can’t say enough good things about it.
Once we left the library, we journeyed on to Edinburgh, and checked into the Radisson Blu Hotel. Edinburgh is a lively, incredible city, and we just so happened to be there during Fringe. There’s so much more to share, so I’ll have to continue in another post! Stay tuned for the next installment, and thanks for reading!
In my last post, I shared how much I enjoyed our time in Stirling Scotland, and the highlights of that city. Our next two stops, Inverness and Montrose, were equally delightful, but I have a bit of bad news related to these cities. I ended up catching a cold, so I had to pass on many of the fun things I would typically enjoy. Sadly, I know I’ve forgotten half of my experience due to being unwell and dazed. It’s a shame: these were among some of the most active days of the tour. In any case, I’ll share what I can remember.
We left Hotel Colessio in the morning, after eating breakfast and putting our bags on the tour bus. on our way to the next town, we got to stop at the beautiful Loch Lomond, and we drove through the Trossachs again. Loch Lomond is the famous lake of the song, “The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond”, and it’s just as enchanting as you’d imagine. It’s immense, and photos couldn’t really capture the beauty of it.
After enjoying Loch Lomond, our next stop was Urquhart Castle. This was a few hours away, and situated on Loch Ness. The bus ride was perfect for getting a much needed nap, though I hate that I missed some fantastic history lessons from our tour guide, Alasdair. What’s striking about many of the most picturesque castle in Scotland is that they are situated on prominent cliffs. What seems like a fantastic security device – a great vantage point for seeing possible invaders – ends up being a prison of sorts. Many of these castles fell under siege and the families dwelling in there could be cut off from food supplies in cases of war. The ruins that remain are stunningly beautiful but also a sobering reminder of the turbulent history of the location.
No, I didn’t see the Loch Ness Monster. Maybe I’ll be lucky next time and spot Nessie!
After a full day of activity, we settled into the Glen Mhor Hotel in Inverness. Aesthetically, this was probably my favorite hotel. It’s a boutique hotel in Inverness, and it’s absolutely gorgeous. The armchairs situated in front of grand, arched windows made me swoon. Since I was under the weather, I stayed in bed while my friend explored nearby pubs. She had a marvelous time and vowed to return. Oh, how I wish I was feeling better, and that I had more days in Inverness! This town has a lot going for it, and I will absolutely return and explore on my own.
The next morning, we ate breakfast, loaded our bags and made our way to the next town, but before we checked in at our next hotel, we stopped at the Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre. This was one of more somber stops of the tour: this was the site of the Battle of Culloden, which marked the end of the Jacobite uprising. The bloodbath that occurred at Culloden was chilling, with the Jacobites losing 5 times more soldiers than the British. The heartbreaking story of Culloden is one that will never leave me.
Our next stop is Dunnottar Castle, which brought us back to (you’ll never guess) . . . Stonehaven, where my Scotland vacation started! Dunnottar is another striking fortification located on a cliff, and, just like Urquhart, the safety of being mostly surrounded by water becomes dangerous when raiders cut off food supplies. Nowadays, Dunnottar Castle is a museum, and the views leading up to it are stunning. We stopped to take photos, then we resumed our ride to Montrose.
We arrived in Montrose, and settled in to the Links Hotel. This charming bed and breakfast was cute, cosy and a wonderful place to refresh ourselves before making our way to the next city. After checking in and resting for a moment, we roused ourselves to visit the statue of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Yes, the town of Montrose is the historical city associated with Clan Graham’s peerage connection. James Graham was not just a peer and soldier, but he was also a poet, and his words adorn the base of the statue, along with Clan Graham’s motto, Ne Oublie (variably, N’Oublie or Ne Oblie). We were treated to a highland dance performance at the site of the statue, and we enjoyed meeting the lovely young ladies who performed for us.
We returned to The Links and ate our dinner, then we settled in for the night. The next day would lead us to our final city of the tour – Edinburgh – and we needed our rest for the full and fantastic days ahead.
That’s it for this installment! The next post will detail my Edinburgh exploits (including some Fringe photos). Stay tuned for that! Thanks for reading.
In my previous posts, I shared my reflections on my time in Stonehaven, Aboyne and Glasgow, Scotland. As the tour progressed, our next stop was Stirling, the “heart of Scotland” (their words, not mine, though I don’t disagree).
After a fantastic day at Mugdock Castle and a stop by a roadside shop in the Trossachs, where I was able to feed and pet some highland coos, we rode for about 50 minutes until we got to Stirling . We were greeted by a statue of Scottish poet Robert Burns.
Soon after reaching downtown Stirling, we checked into Hotel Colessio. This charming boutique hotel was picturesque and perfectly located. It was a short walking distance to two central attractions: downtown Stirling on one side and Stirling Castle on the other. The rooms here, like the rooms at each hotel on this tour, were clean, comfortable and charming, and the meals were delicious.
After dinner and getting a good night’s rest, we started the first full day in Stirling at the Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre. Our enthusiastic guide described the battle and the contributing factors in great detail, and he managed to strike that perfect balance between knowledge and entertainment. As someone who (prior to this trip) knew very little about Scotland’s history, I was happy to have guides at each of our stops who eagerly shared information with me, as well as my wonderful tour companions who added additional depth and flavor to these discussions.
I know precious little about military logistics and strategy, but hearing how Robert the Bruce won the Battle of Bannockburn by leveraging topographical knowledge was thrilling. Once we finished the discussion portion of the tour, we went outside and saw the statue of Robert the Bruce, situated in a courtyard that was encircled by another artwork, a highly textured brick wall that was topped by verses of “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie.
When we finished our time at Bannockburn, it was time for lunch, so we stopped in at Nicky-Tams Bar and Bothy, a pub nearby Hotel Colessio. This 300-year-old pub is the perfect stop after a morning of exploring. I order the vegetarian haggis, one of my favorite dishes when in Scotland. I love tasting different versions of veggie haggis to see which ones taste most similar to the real deal (I’ve also tried real haggis a few times, just to base my comparison). The neeps and tatties accompaniment at Nicky-Tams was unique: instead of offering it as two separate sides, the veggies are combined into a single mash and served as a singular item. The dish was tasty and hearty. I also tried Jubel beer, a Cornish beer that features fruit flavors. It was delicious and refreshing. I will certainly return to Nicky-Tams in the future, since they are known for live music in the evenings and, on this trip, I was unable to take full advantage of that.
Once we were finished with lunch, we went to Stirling Distillery, where we met the Lord Provost of Stirling, Elaine Watterson. I wish I’d taking more photos at the intimate distillery, one of the smallest in Scotland. Because whisky must be aged at least 3 years and one day in order to be labeled “whisky”, and, the distillery was still aging their next batch, we were unable to try their whisky. However, they happily conducted a tasting where we tried a few gins and whiskys from nearby distilleries instead.
After visiting the distillery, we were off to Stirling Castle. This childhood home of Mary, Queen of Scots, was stately and picturesque. One of my favorite features, other than the meticulous grounds, was the Stirling Heads Gallery, a vast collection of oak carvings, both painted and plain, depicting some of the most prominent people of Scottish history. These nearly 500 year old portraits were originally used to decorate the ceiling of a room in Stirling Castle, but now they are on display for us to enjoy.
This full day of activity ended with us returning to Hotel Colessio for dinner, and a deep, restful sleep followed.
The next day, we ate breakfast and dressed well because we were headed to Buchanan Castle Golf Club for the Clan Graham Annual General Meeting (AGM). At this event, we were greeted by His Grace, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose, descendant of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Standing beside His Grace, in the soft, misty rain, was a bagpiper, welcoming us in the warmest Scottish way.
We ate a lovely meal at the club, and then the AGM occurred, where members voted on organizational proposal. We took some great photos on the grounds of the club, and then journeyed back to our hotel.
When we returned to the hotel, we had another fantastic dinner, and we also had the Mugdock Auction. We brought items and submitted them for a silent auction, with all proceeds being contributed to the Mugdock preservation efforts. The ballroom of Hotel Colessio was perfectly charming and well suited for the auction. We enjoyed songs, traditional highland dance, bagpiping, and an entertaining auction. We had such a good time together!
This was our last night at Hotel Colessio. After the auction and dinner, we returned to our rooms and began to pack our things. The next day would whisk us off to the next cities: Inverness and Montrose!
Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for the next post on my summer vacation!
This is a continuation of my recap of my time in Scotland. After landing in Edinburgh, traveling up to Stonehaven, and enjoying some time at the Aboyne Games, my friend and I journeyed to Glasgow to continue our adventure.
Instead of taking the LNER train, we rode ScotRail. We weren’t able to upgrade our tickets for this leg of our trip, but we ended up with good and comfortable window seats. We were joined by an adorable young married couple – Lola and Hal – on their way to Glasgow for a fun weekend. We had a fantastic conversation and enjoyed the sights as we chugged along for two hours.
We arrived at the Glasgow train station and started the walk to the Maldron Hotel. This was our first time at a modern hotel in Scotland: the hotels we stayed in before (and after) this one were mostly boutique style and more historical. The sleek and modern decor was fun and fresh. We dropped off our bags, freshened up, and prepared to meet our tour group for dinner.
Our tour was hosted by Clan Graham Society, the organization endorsed by the head of Clan Graham, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose. The tour was organized to commemorate Clan Graham Society’s 50th Anniversary and was coordinated by several members of Clan Graham – specifically, Kate Graham and Kiersten Graham Dick, along with Gordon Graham – and every detail was considered with care. All members of the group, except for a few folks like me, have a connection to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Clan Graham is extraordinarily warm and welcoming, and I joined the organization as a friend of Clan Graham. My friend, who was my roommate for the entirety of the trip, has a Graham-affiliated surname, so she’s a member of Clan Graham and encouraged me to join. I’m so thankful for her encouraging me to become part of the group!
In our ten day tour, we visited sites that were historically relevant to Scotland as a whole, as well as sites relevant to Graham history specifically. Every other day or so, we traveled to another town or city, each one significant in its own right.
We enjoyed delightful meals at the Maldron each day during our stay (we were there two nights). On the first full day in Glasgow, we were supposed to go to the Isle of Arran, but the weather was unfavorable (one of the strongest storms of the summer happened on this day). While the group made alternate arrangements, my friend and I – still quite tired from our time in Stonehaven and Aboyne – decided to sleep in and explore Glasgow in the afternoon instead.
While walking around, we came across many interesting and old buildings that were photo-worthy. But, despite Glasgow being full of gothic, Victorian and art nouveau structures, the city has a distinctly modern, “concrete jungle” feel. It’s undeniably metropolitan energy gives it an edge and pulse that wholly unlike the laidback energy of Edinburgh. To be frank, I love both cities and will happily return many times, if I’m able.
After grabbing a delicious hot chocolate from Hotel Chocolat (complete with chocolate whipped cream rose, no less), we stumbled across Frasers department store, and I became an instant fan. As a lover of the department stores of yesteryear, Frasers reminded me of the kind of stores that are becoming rarer to find stateside. It was so nice to walk in and get an experience similar to Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Liberty or Selfridges. I found an amazing formal gown that I had to purchase, and had a wonderful chat with one of the sales reps at Frasers. I’m so pleased that we stumbled upon this store, because none of the other cities or towns on our tour had a Frasers.
Once we finished shopping, we made our way back to the hotel. I snapped photos of interesting things I saw on our walk, including Nelson Mandela Place, a street named after the South African former President, Nobel Peace Prize recipient, and anti-apartheid activist. I also saw shops and architectural details that I loved.
Before we walked the final block to our hotel, we stopped off at the DoubleTree by Hilton to check out their restaurant, Cask & Clyde. The menu had a fair amount of options, and I found a couple of things that looked good (namely, the soup of the day – lentil – and macaroni and cheese). I also enjoyed an old fashioned while I waited for my food.
I enjoyed my Cask & Clyde experience, and will definitely return when I get back to Glasgow. After we were full, we returned to our rooms and relaxed for a few hours before dinner.
The next day, we loaded our luggage onto the tour bus in preparation for checkout. Our bags stayed on the bus as we journeyed to our first stop on day 2: Mugdock Castle. This was the original stronghold for Clan Graham more than 800 years ago. The castle is now mostly in ruins, but Mugdock Country Park is still an incredible site and well worth the visit. The castle is about a 15 minute walk from the entrance. On the trail to the castle, you will see the remains of Craigend Zoo, as well as many dog owners taking their friendly pups for walks.
When we arrived at the castle, Clan Graham’s chieftain, Richard Graham, presented the caretakers of Mugdock Castle with a 50th anniversary commemorative plate. It was a touching ceremony and I’m so glad I got to witness it. Inside the castle, there are a number of Clan Graham artifacts, including a number of pieces emblazoned with royal crests. The site is a beautiful one that is listed by the Scottish Tourism Board. While the day was misty and cool, the walks to and from the castle were refreshing and picturesque.
We returned to the main entrance building and warmed up with lentil soup, sandwiches and coffee and tea. The guides graciously answered our questions and gave us a delightful end to a fantastic day at Mugdock.
We boarded the tour bus and made our way to the next city on our tour, Stirling. However, we stopped momentarily at Loch Katrine, then followed that with a later stop at a local shop which had some highland coos in a neighboring field, and I got the treat of a lifetime when I was able to feed those sweet coos!
This full day of activity was only a glimpse of the magic to come on my Scotland vacation! I’m excited to share with you the next part in a few days, where I will discuss my time in Stirling. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
This summer, I spent two glorious weeks touring different towns in Scotland. My trip started and ended in Edinburgh and, despite making the most of my time in Scotland, I always feel that I could have benefited from another week . . . or two. I looked back fondly on my trip, and I’m so glad I get to share the details with you all!
As I already said, my Scotland trip started with Edinburgh Airport. Despite this being my favorite UK city, this was actually my first time flying directly into EDI airport (I always choose Heathrow, since London is usually my first stop in the UK). Since this was a Scotland-only trip, it made sense to fly in directly instead of landing in Heathrow or Gatwick and then taking the train for 4 hours.
I started my trip by exploring the airport. From what I could see, there wasn’t much to do in the International Arrivals gates: it’s basically disembark, customs, and go outside to catch your Uber or taxi. I did find a couple of little shops and eateries in the main ticketing area, but most of the good shopping and dining were on the departure side exclusively, right beyond security. And, since I wasn’t departing, I couldn’t access that area until my return flight.
In any case, I got some breakfast and waited at one of the cafes until my friend arrived, then we were off to start our Scottish adventure. We took the airport shuttle to one of the train stops, then we took a LNER train to Stonehaven. We purchased our train tickets once we arrived in Edinburgh, since we weren’t sure if we’d have travel delays that would impact our ability to make our reservation. Once I familiarized myself with the LNER website, purchasing the tickets was a clear and simple process. As someone who has booked a couple of UK train tickets over the years, I recommend that you always upgrade if you can, and always confirm that your ticket has an assigned seat number. Otherwise, you may find yourself standing for the entirety of your trip (I’ve seen it happen to others)!
The two hour ride north of Edinburgh is charming and picturesque. One delightful part of the LNER train experience was our decision to splurge on first class seats. The seats were reasonably priced [even as a last minute purchase], comfortable, and the railcar had adequate space for our luggage. I’ve ridden a number of trains stateside, and a few overseas, but this was the first time I enjoyed a lovely meal as part of our ticket price. I’ve paid far more for shorter train rides, and trust me, there were no refreshments included!
However, the absolute best part of the ride, was the people. We had a wonderful chat with one gentleman on the train, who was going to Aberdeen, just a little further north of our stop. The train conductors are always so polite and helpful. Their personalities are one of my favorite things about train travel in the UK. One of the best experiences I’ve ever had was the conductor I met during the first time I came to Scotland, who helped me sort out a seating issue with the kind of professionalism and kindness I could only hope to encounter in others.
We arrived in Stonehaven and took a cab to the Ship Inn, a cute bed and breakfast overlooking a harbor. The cabs have a fixed rate during most of the week (only 5 GBP!) and will take you anywhere in town. We got to the hotel and checked in. Like many Scottish hotels, the bar is also the check in desk, so you can grab your keys and a strong beverage at the same time.
Our room was tidy and comfortable. Shortbread cookies and tea sachets were refreshed daily. The Ship Inn also had excellent breakfast options, which were suitable for my flexitarian tastes as well as the pescatarian/vegetarian preferences of my friend. We enjoyed a traditional Scottish breakfast daily, complete with baked beans, tomatoes, vegetarian sausage, eggs, hash browns, tomatoes and toast. After washing down the hearty breakfast with coffee and juice, we were ready to start exploring.
I failed to mention why we went directly to Stonehaven instead of staying in Edinburgh for a bit. During the 2024 Stone Mountain Highland Games in Atlanta, my friend exchanged information with Richard Baird, Commander of Clan Baird, who was visiting. He told her that there would be a highland game in Aboyne, Scotland, in early August, and the game just happened to be scheduled a few days before our pre-planned Scotland tour. So we arrived in Scotland 4 days earlier than originally planned, allowing us enough time to enjoy the Aboyne Games before starting the scheduled tour.
The decision to spend some time in Stonehaven – Richard’s hometown and the town closest to Aboyne – was a great one. The day after we settled in, we had a chance to meet up with Richard and his lovely wife Polly, and he gave us a fantastic tour of his beautiful home. We even had a chance to drive his ATV, which was perfect for riding over the hills and dips of his estate. We got to see the beautiful herds of sheep and goats feasting on the heather, and we even got to see a new litter of hunting pups that were born just a few weeks prior.
One of my friends from London had never gone to Stonehaven or Aboyne, so we met up the day before the games, and we all went to the games together. The Aboyne Games are a marvelous opportunity to enjoy a truly traditional highland game experience. Many of the games that you may enjoy stateside are HUGE affairs, drawing people from hundreds of miles away. However, traditional games were a local and more intimate experience, a small, fun community gathering that people cherish each year.
This year’s Aboyne Games were blessed with full sunshine and warm temperatures (almost 80 degrees Fahrenheit, a bit of an anomaly!). I had a wonderful time meeting some members of Clan Baird as well as some other clan members. Since we came from outside of Scotland, we were delighted to see an international tent. We received a personal greeting from Granville Gordon, 13th Marquess of Huntly and Chieftain of the Aboyne Games. We celebrated our time with a taste of Cock O’ The North whisky liqueur (after which, we promptly purchased our own bottles to take home).
I can’t say enough good things about my time in Stonehaven. I even got to try some fish and chips at Meydan, located in the town square. Sadly, I didn’t get to go to Carron: this restaurant is the home of the original deep-fried Mars bar! Alas, maybe I’ll get to try it next time. My only wish is that there were more things to do in the evening, but that’s just my night-owl tendencies talking. Stonehaven is a small, charming town, so I managed my expectations and enjoyed it for what it was. The easy, laidback energy of the town was soothing: I loved seeing the same few folks walking by the hotel, striking up conversations with local self-appointed ambassadors (the best kind of people) and taking in the harbor views.
We spent a few days in Stonehaven before heading to Glasgow, to start the beginning of the tour.
I’ll be back soon with Part 2, where I’ll discuss my time in Glasgow. Thanks for reading!
Bronze Butterfly 