This summer, I spent two glorious weeks touring different towns in Scotland. My trip started and ended in Edinburgh and, despite making the most of my time in Scotland, I always feel that I could have benefited from another week . . . or two. I looked back fondly on my trip, and I’m so glad I get to share the details with you all!
As I already said, my Scotland trip started with Edinburgh Airport. Despite this being my favorite UK city, this was actually my first time flying directly into EDI airport (I always choose Heathrow, since London is usually my first stop in the UK). Since this was a Scotland-only trip, it made sense to fly in directly instead of landing in Heathrow or Gatwick and then taking the train for 4 hours.
I started my trip by exploring the airport. From what I could see, there wasn’t much to do in the International Arrivals gates: it’s basically disembark, customs, and go outside to catch your Uber or taxi. I did find a couple of little shops and eateries in the main ticketing area, but most of the good shopping and dining were on the departure side exclusively, right beyond security. And, since I wasn’t departing, I couldn’t access that area until my return flight.
In any case, I got some breakfast and waited at one of the cafes until my friend arrived, then we were off to start our Scottish adventure. We took the airport shuttle to one of the train stops, then we took a LNER train to Stonehaven. We purchased our train tickets once we arrived in Edinburgh, since we weren’t sure if we’d have travel delays that would impact our ability to make our reservation. Once I familiarized myself with the LNER website, purchasing the tickets was a clear and simple process. As someone who has booked a couple of UK train tickets over the years, I recommend that you always upgrade if you can, and always confirm that your ticket has an assigned seat number. Otherwise, you may find yourself standing for the entirety of your trip (I’ve seen it happen to others)!
The two hour ride north of Edinburgh is charming and picturesque. One delightful part of the LNER train experience was our decision to splurge on first class seats. The seats were reasonably priced [even as a last minute purchase], comfortable, and the railcar had adequate space for our luggage. I’ve ridden a number of trains stateside, and a few overseas, but this was the first time I enjoyed a lovely meal as part of our ticket price. I’ve paid far more for shorter train rides, and trust me, there were no refreshments included!
However, the absolute best part of the ride, was the people. We had a wonderful chat with one gentleman on the train, who was going to Aberdeen, just a little further north of our stop. The train conductors are always so polite and helpful. Their personalities are one of my favorite things about train travel in the UK. One of the best experiences I’ve ever had was the conductor I met during the first time I came to Scotland, who helped me sort out a seating issue with the kind of professionalism and kindness I could only hope to encounter in others.
We arrived in Stonehaven and took a cab to the Ship Inn, a cute bed and breakfast overlooking a harbor. The cabs have a fixed rate during most of the week (only 5 GBP!) and will take you anywhere in town. We got to the hotel and checked in. Like many Scottish hotels, the bar is also the check in desk, so you can grab your keys and a strong beverage at the same time.
Our room was tidy and comfortable. Shortbread cookies and tea sachets were refreshed daily. The Ship Inn also had excellent breakfast options, which were suitable for my flexitarian tastes as well as the pescatarian/vegetarian preferences of my friend. We enjoyed a traditional Scottish breakfast daily, complete with baked beans, tomatoes, vegetarian sausage, eggs, hash browns, tomatoes and toast. After washing down the hearty breakfast with coffee and juice, we were ready to start exploring.
I failed to mention why we went directly to Stonehaven instead of staying in Edinburgh for a bit. During the 2024 Stone Mountain Highland Games in Atlanta, my friend exchanged information with Richard Baird, Commander of Clan Baird, who was visiting. He told her that there would be a highland game in Aboyne, Scotland, in early August, and the game just happened to be scheduled a few days before our pre-planned Scotland tour. So we arrived in Scotland 4 days earlier than originally planned, allowing us enough time to enjoy the Aboyne Games before starting the scheduled tour.
The decision to spend some time in Stonehaven – Richard’s hometown and the town closest to Aboyne – was a great one. The day after we settled in, we had a chance to meet up with Richard and his lovely wife Polly, and he gave us a fantastic tour of his beautiful home. We even had a chance to drive his ATV, which was perfect for riding over the hills and dips of his estate. We got to see the beautiful herds of sheep and goats feasting on the heather, and we even got to see a new litter of hunting pups that were born just a few weeks prior.
One of my friends from London had never gone to Stonehaven or Aboyne, so we met up the day before the games, and we all went to the games together. The Aboyne Games are a marvelous opportunity to enjoy a truly traditional highland game experience. Many of the games that you may enjoy stateside are HUGE affairs, drawing people from hundreds of miles away. However, traditional games were a local and more intimate experience, a small, fun community gathering that people cherish each year.
This year’s Aboyne Games were blessed with full sunshine and warm temperatures (almost 80 degrees Fahrenheit, a bit of an anomaly!). I had a wonderful time meeting some members of Clan Baird as well as some other clan members. Since we came from outside of Scotland, we were delighted to see an international tent. We received a personal greeting from Granville Gordon, 13th Marquess of Huntly and Chieftain of the Aboyne Games. We celebrated our time with a taste of Cock O’ The North whisky liqueur (after which, we promptly purchased our own bottles to take home).
I can’t say enough good things about my time in Stonehaven. I even got to try some fish and chips at Meydan, located in the town square. Sadly, I didn’t get to go to Carron: this restaurant is the home of the original deep-fried Mars bar! Alas, maybe I’ll get to try it next time. My only wish is that there were more things to do in the evening, but that’s just my night-owl tendencies talking. Stonehaven is a small, charming town, so I managed my expectations and enjoyed it for what it was. The easy, laidback energy of the town was soothing: I loved seeing the same few folks walking by the hotel, striking up conversations with local self-appointed ambassadors (the best kind of people) and taking in the harbor views.
We spent a few days in Stonehaven before heading to Glasgow, to start the beginning of the tour.
I’ll be back soon with Part 2, where I’ll discuss my time in Glasgow. Thanks for reading!
Bronze Butterfly 