After finishing my last full day in Scotland, I tucked into my Radisson Blu bed and got an amazing night’s rest. The next morning, I got up, ate a fantastic breakfast, then called an Uber to take me to Edinburgh Airport. My driver was a lovely gent, who recommended I visit Oban when I return to Scotland (consider it added to my list!). I didn’t take many photos to document my trip home, so I’ll share some random photos from Scotland that weren’t in my previous posts.
Statue of Sir Walter Scott on Princes Street in Edinburgh
When I got to the airport, I checked in easily and then explored the departure area. If you recall, in my first post about my Scotland trip, I mentioned how I had limited shopping and food options in the International arrival gate area. So I was curious whether there was more dining and shopping opportunities in the departure gate. As it turns out, there were FAR more stores and restaurants in this part of the airport. Waiting for my plane was a lot easier with so many things for me to see and do as the time ticked by.
More statues in Edinburgh: this one is David Livingstone
My plane arrived, and I was very thankful for my upgraded seats: I was able to stretch my legs comfortably, and since I always order special meals, I received my dinner earlier than most passengers. I did a bit of writing, movie watching and sleeping on my way back to the States.
Modern restaurant in a gothic building: I never tire of the blend of old and new in Edinburgh
My flight had a layover in New York (JFK), so I had to get on another plane to make my way home. Unfortunately, due to stormy weather, my connecting flight was cancelled. This was a stressful experience: not only was I exhausted beyond belief (the drastic time change between the UK and the East Coast of the US is brutal) but I had to book a hotel and hand wash some of my garments, since the bulk of my clothing was in my checked luggage (which I couldn’t access, since the airline kept it until the connecting flight arrived). My connecting flight wasn’t until the next day, and since the delay was weather related, I didn’t qualify for a refund of my out of pocket costs (more about that later).
Edinburgh Fringe advertisements
I reserved a room at The Fairfield by Marriott New York Manhattan Times Square (that’s a mouthful!) I was glad to get nice accommodations on such short notice. I was tired and a little bedraggled, thanks to the rainstorm that caused me to need a hotel room in the first place. The reception desk was one of my best check ins ever, with a great staff that were so kind and helpful. They were a relief after a challenging day at JFK Airport.
Barriers for Edinburgh Fringe: it states, Scotland, The Perfect Stage. They’re right!
I slept soundly, partially due to jet lag, and partially due to the bed being so comfortable. I woke the next day, grabbed my carry on, and made my way back to JFK. I checked in, got to the seating area, and 90 minutes later, I was on my plane, heading to my hometown.
When I got home, I reached out to Delta and explained the issue, and they graciously granted me goodwill mileage since I incurred significant out of pocket expenses due to the cancellation. I am always so impressed with their customer service, and I’m thankful that the second representative I spoke to was willing to help me in this way. It was a challenging trip back home, but I arrived safely, and for that, I’m thankful.
That’s the last of my weeks in Scotland: what a TIME was had! It was eventful all the way to the very last flight! Thanks for reading, and I will talk to you all soon.
Despite visiting Edinburgh previously, I never got a chance to visit these two sites. I was so excited because I knew that these were the perfect sites to visit with a group: having a guide that is dedicated to sharing history and answering your questions is a top tier experience that isn’t always available to you as a solo traveler. Also, members of tour groups often come up with excellent questions that add richness and deeper understanding to the conversations held while touring.
Banner at St Giles’ Cathedral
St Giles’ Cathedral is a very special place for Clan Graham and the Clan Graham Society (the group I toured with while in Scotland). This is the final resting place for James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, the ancestral head of Clan Graham. This somber site is a stunningly beautiful building, with lots of stained glass and a ton of fascinating history. The church still operates out of this building, as it has done for the past 900 years. You can attend services if you happen to be in Edinburgh: services are held on Sundays and mid-day during the week.
Exterior of St Giles’ Cathedral
Stained glass in the cathedral
Stunning architecture overhead at St Giles’ Cathedral
I was deeply moved as I paid my respects to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. I was amazed by the peaceful and dignified likeness of Graham on his sarcophagus. Richard Graham, North American Chieftain of Clan Graham, and president of Clan Graham Society, provided a stirring recitation of the poem written by James Graham prior to his execution.
The 1st Marquess of Montrose, James Graham
Richard Graham paying his respects to his ancestor
The poem recited was, “Let them bestow on every airth a limb”, a haunting description of the execution that the 1st Marquess knew he’d experience, as well as his assured belief that God would recover his spirit and view him as righteous. This beautiful poem is worth sharing here (courtesy of All Poetry):
Let them bestow on every airth a limb, Then open all my veins, that I may swim To thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake, Then place my par boiled head upon a stake; Scatter my ashes, strow them in the air. Lord, since thou knowest where all these atoms are, I’m hopeful thou’lt recover once my dust, And confident thou’lt raise me with the just.
I also saw that James Graham and some of his descendants were honored at several different memorials within St Giles’.
Memorializing the 1st Marquess of Montrose
Montrose crest in Thistle Chapel
I was amused by the story of Jenny Geddes, the woman who threw a stool at the head of a St. Giles’ minister, in protest of the attempted Anglican-izing of the Scottish church. I was in awe of the Thistle Chapel, where the Order of the Thistle (the chivalrous organization headed by King Charles III) convenes. Hearing the significance of each of the seats and the decorative emblems chosen for the members of the Order was fascinating.
The story of Jenny Geddes
A statue in tribute to Jenny Geddes’ cuttie-stool
Crests in stained glass in the meeting area for the Order of the Thistle
The spectacular ceiling in Thistle Chapel
Details above the seats in Thistle Chapel
This beautiful cathedral also had the honor of accommodating Queen Elizabeth II’s body for nearly 24 hours as she was relocated from Balmoral Castle to Buckingham Palace. A couple of years ago, I had the honor to pay my respects to Her Majesty at her final resting place in Windsor Castle. I did not know that her body had also traveled to Edinburgh en route to Westminster Abbey.
Memorial commemorating where HM Queen Elizabeth II laid en route to London
One unique memorial plaque that I saw was the one to Elsie Maud Inglis, a physician and suffragist who founded the Scottish Women’s Hospitals for Foreign Services. Her organization served extensively during World War I, and supported the Serbian army during this time. Inglis is honored in both Edinburgh and in Serbia.
Memorial honoring Elsie Maud Ingrid
And what Scottish historical site would be complete without a tribute to national treasure Robert Burns? The stained glass window dedicated to Burns is a delight to the eyes.
Memorial plaque honoring Robert Burns
Burns memorial stained glass window at St Giles’ Cathedral
After leaving St. Giles’ Cathedral, we headed over to Edinburgh Castle. These two significant landmarks are a short distance from one another. I really loved Edinburgh Castle, and it was a treat to see the Scottish crown jewels (sadly, we were not allowed to photograph them). Seeing this incredible site, where King James the VI was born, made a lasting impression on me.
Ticket to enter Edinburgh Castle
One of the structures at Edinburgh Castle
Sleek, elegant lion sculpture at Edinburgh Castle
When we finished touring the castle, we met up with a friend living in Edinburgh and had a great lunch at a local restaurant, The Mussel and Steak Bar. I don’t like mussels, but I enjoy most other seafood, so I knew I’d find something I like. I had an AMAZING crab lunch that was massive, messy and delicious.
Crab dinner in Edinburgh
We finished the evening with a dinner and performance at Ghillie Dhu, where a bagpiper and highland dancers entertained us. We ate a great dinner and I tried real haggis for the first time. We ended the night with a little bit of ceilidh dancing.
My haggis bon bon at Ghillie Dhu
My last full day in Edinburgh was incredible and memorable. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful city, but I also missed my family, and I was ready to see them and to get back to my routine.
I’ll talk about my interesting return back to my hometown in my next post. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
Edinburgh is such a magical city. When we arrived, it was the early evening, which means we had time to walk around and explore a bit. I was thrilled when I saw one of my favorite things in Scotland: Harris tweed coats and accessories.
Love this pretty pink tweed
Love these gorgeous coats and accessories
We stayed at the Radisson Blu, a sleek and modern hotel located in Edinburgh’s city centre. We returned to our hotel after grabbing a small fast food dinner. When we got back to the room, I could finally take it all in: the rooms were nothing like the boutique hotels we were in for the majority of the trip. We had elevators, bright lighting, spa facilities: this hotel was like stepping back into the modern day (after enjoying the history and charm of yesteryear). We were exhausted from the busy day we enjoyed, so we slept well and got our rest. That next day, my friend and I were still a bit tired, and opted out of the scheduled activities for the day. We slept in, then walked around Edinburgh. Oh, and one more thing: we were in Edinburgh during the Fringe Festival, so there was plenty of outdoor activity as we walked around near our hotel.
Walking the streets of Edinburgh
We missed breakfast, but walked to a nearby restaurant for lunch. We decided to try David Bann, a vegetarian restaurant. I order a mint tea, a salad, and the wild mushroom bake. I finished with a dessert. Everything was so delicious! I hate how quickly I ate my meal: I barely got any pictures. That being said, I highly recommend that you all stop by if you’re in Edinburgh (if you’d like me to do a review on David Bann specifically, I can make that a separate post).
The menus at David Bann
Fresh mint tea
My salad
Delectable dessert
While walking around on Princes Street, we ended up at Whittard of Chelsea, where I couldn’t resist buying Banoffee Pie and Sticky Toffee Pudding flavored hot chocolate. I spotted some more gorgeous traditional Scottish clothing and also made my way to shops that I enjoy at home (like Zara). We were out for several hours, so we decided to eat dinner before heading to our evening activity.
Display at Whittard of Chelsea
Perfumes at Zara
Kilts and tartans on display
On our schedules for the evening was the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a dazzling display of dance, music, rifle and sword artistry, and precision marching. It was a thrilling show that is fun for the whole family. The spectacular show ended with an incredible combined routine with all of the participating military forces, and an array of fireworks light the sky up.
Waiting for the show to start
Military in formation
More performers at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
Light display at the end of the show
More light displays
When we left the performance, I felt like I was buzzing from the excitement! To say that I enjoyed it would be an understatement. That being said, all of the walking, shopping, and taking in the street performers left me sufficiently tired. I fell asleep with no issue. I needed to get enough rest so that I could do all of the activities for the next day, our last full day in Scotland.
That’s all for day 1 in Edinburgh. I’m looking forward to sharing day 2, my final full day in Scotland, shortly. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!
This summer, I spent two glorious weeks touring different towns in Scotland. My trip started and ended in Edinburgh and, despite making the most of my time in Scotland, I always feel that I could have benefited from another week . . . or two. I looked back fondly on my trip, and I’m so glad I get to share the details with you all!
As I already said, my Scotland trip started with Edinburgh Airport. Despite this being my favorite UK city, this was actually my first time flying directly into EDI airport (I always choose Heathrow, since London is usually my first stop in the UK). Since this was a Scotland-only trip, it made sense to fly in directly instead of landing in Heathrow or Gatwick and then taking the train for 4 hours.
Posing at Edinburgh Airport
I started my trip by exploring the airport. From what I could see, there wasn’t much to do in the International Arrivals gates: it’s basically disembark, customs, and go outside to catch your Uber or taxi. I did find a couple of little shops and eateries in the main ticketing area, but most of the good shopping and dining were on the departure side exclusively, right beyond security. And, since I wasn’t departing, I couldn’t access that area until my return flight.
In any case, I got some breakfast and waited at one of the cafes until my friend arrived, then we were off to start our Scottish adventure. We took the airport shuttle to one of the train stops, then we took a LNER train to Stonehaven. We purchased our train tickets once we arrived in Edinburgh, since we weren’t sure if we’d have travel delays that would impact our ability to make our reservation. Once I familiarized myself with the LNER website, purchasing the tickets was a clear and simple process. As someone who has booked a couple of UK train tickets over the years, I recommend that you always upgrade if you can, and always confirm that your ticket has an assigned seat number. Otherwise, you may find yourself standing for the entirety of your trip (I’ve seen it happen to others)!
The two hour ride north of Edinburgh is charming and picturesque. One delightful part of the LNER train experience was our decision to splurge on first class seats. The seats were reasonably priced [even as a last minute purchase], comfortable, and the railcar had adequate space for our luggage. I’ve ridden a number of trains stateside, and a few overseas, but this was the first time I enjoyed a lovely meal as part of our ticket price. I’ve paid far more for shorter train rides, and trust me, there were no refreshments included!
However, the absolute best part of the ride, was the people. We had a wonderful chat with one gentleman on the train, who was going to Aberdeen, just a little further north of our stop. The train conductors are always so polite and helpful. Their personalities are one of my favorite things about train travel in the UK. One of the best experiences I’ve ever had was the conductor I met during the first time I came to Scotland, who helped me sort out a seating issue with the kind of professionalism and kindness I could only hope to encounter in others.
We arrived in Stonehaven and took a cab to the Ship Inn, a cute bed and breakfast overlooking a harbor. The cabs have a fixed rate during most of the week (only 5 GBP!) and will take you anywhere in town. We got to the hotel and checked in. Like many Scottish hotels, the bar is also the check in desk, so you can grab your keys and a strong beverage at the same time.
Our room was tidy and comfortable. Shortbread cookies and tea sachets were refreshed daily. The Ship Inn also had excellent breakfast options, which were suitable for my flexitarian tastes as well as the pescatarian/vegetarian preferences of my friend. We enjoyed a traditional Scottish breakfast daily, complete with baked beans, tomatoes, vegetarian sausage, eggs, hash browns, tomatoes and toast. After washing down the hearty breakfast with coffee and juice, we were ready to start exploring.
Breakfast at The Ship Inn
I failed to mention why we went directly to Stonehaven instead of staying in Edinburgh for a bit. During the 2024 Stone Mountain Highland Games in Atlanta, my friend exchanged information with Richard Baird, Commander of Clan Baird, who was visiting. He told her that there would be a highland game in Aboyne, Scotland, in early August, and the game just happened to be scheduled a few days before our pre-planned Scotland tour. So we arrived in Scotland 4 days earlier than originally planned, allowing us enough time to enjoy the Aboyne Games before starting the scheduled tour.
The decision to spend some time in Stonehaven – Richard’s hometown and the town closest to Aboyne – was a great one. The day after we settled in, we had a chance to meet up with Richard and his lovely wife Polly, and he gave us a fantastic tour of his beautiful home. We even had a chance to drive his ATV, which was perfect for riding over the hills and dips of his estate. We got to see the beautiful herds of sheep and goats feasting on the heather, and we even got to see a new litter of hunting pups that were born just a few weeks prior.
Fields surrounding Ury Estate
Ury Castle under construction
Fields of heather
Driving on Ury Estate
One of my friends from London had never gone to Stonehaven or Aboyne, so we met up the day before the games, and we all went to the games together. The Aboyne Games are a marvelous opportunity to enjoy a truly traditional highland game experience. Many of the games that you may enjoy stateside are HUGE affairs, drawing people from hundreds of miles away. However, traditional games were a local and more intimate experience, a small, fun community gathering that people cherish each year.
At the Aboyne Games
This year’s Aboyne Games were blessed with full sunshine and warm temperatures (almost 80 degrees Fahrenheit, a bit of an anomaly!). I had a wonderful time meeting some members of Clan Baird as well as some other clan members. Since we came from outside of Scotland, we were delighted to see an international tent. We received a personal greeting from Granville Gordon, 13th Marquess of Huntly and Chieftain of the Aboyne Games. We celebrated our time with a taste of Cock O’ The North whisky liqueur (after which, we promptly purchased our own bottles to take home).
I can’t say enough good things about my time in Stonehaven. I even got to try some fish and chips at Meydan, located in the town square. Sadly, I didn’t get to go to Carron: this restaurant is the home of the original deep-fried Mars bar! Alas, maybe I’ll get to try it next time. My only wish is that there were more things to do in the evening, but that’s just my night-owl tendencies talking. Stonehaven is a small, charming town, so I managed my expectations and enjoyed it for what it was. The easy, laidback energy of the town was soothing: I loved seeing the same few folks walking by the hotel, striking up conversations with local self-appointed ambassadors (the best kind of people) and taking in the harbor views.
I’ll check this out next time!
We spent a few days in Stonehaven before heading to Glasgow, to start the beginning of the tour.
I’ll be back soon with Part 2, where I’ll discuss my time in Glasgow. Thanks for reading!
Last summer, I did a short visit to Edinburgh, Scotland. I regret that I didn’t have more time to enjoy this exquisite city, but I take the brevity of my trip as a fantastic reason to return at some point in the near future.
I stayed at the Kimpton Charlotte Square, a luxury hotel located near the Royal Botanic Garden and the National Galleries of Scotland. Because the hotel is located in the city center, it’s very easy to get to a lot of different attractions, and it’s impossible to get bored in this incredible city.
I was greeted by a warm and friendly staff: certainly the warmest and friendliest of any that I encountered in the UK. I was given a tour of the hotel, as well as an overview of the amenities included with my stay. I settled into my room then explored the grounds. The interior design of this hotel is stunning: it’s both traditional and eclectic at once. It seems like the dazzling displays would compete with one another, but the decorations are cohesive and aesthetically pleasing. Somehow, it all just goes together.
Many times, after a long trip, I find myself hungry, but not yet ready for a full meal. Imagine my surprise when I saw that my room was stocked with complimentary snacks, as well as a massive list of all the items that the hotel could either give or loan to you in case you need them (think phone chargers, humidifiers, rubber bathmats, yoga mats, etc.,). It was an absolutely perfect touch that I expect from a luxury hotel but, alas, many miss the mark on this.
My stay included the breakfast buffet, which was not only convenient but delicious. There was also the cocktail hour (available to all guests) which was lively and social. Upon looking at the Kimpton Charlotte Square website, I see that visitors can opt for half board (breakfast and dinner) at the hotel, which is exactly what I’ll do when I return.
I’m not sure if my affection for Edinburgh was founded strictly on my Kimpton Charlotte Square experience, but I can certainly vouch for the fact that any trip to this magical city would be made better by a stay at this hotel. As a little tip I learned through my research, the peak (read: priciest) times to travel are the summer months and the Christmas/New Year period. Any other time of the year will give you the same lovely experience but for a lower cost.
While you’re at the Kimpton Charlotte Square, be sure to walk a few blocks to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. This whisky lounge is charming and gives you a great excuse to come out and learn more about uisge-beatha (the Scottish Gaelic word for whisky, that literally translates to, ‘water of life’).
Have you been to Edinburgh? If not, is Scotland on your travel list? I’d love to know more in the comments below. I’ll talk to you all soon!
Bronze Butterfly 