My Heart Belongs to Scotland – Edinburgh, Day 2

December 3, 2025December 3, 2025 Mstldelano1 Comment

After an amazing day exploring Edinburgh, finishing off with an evening at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, I rested and prepared for the last full day in the city, which included time at St. Giles’ Cathedral and Edinburgh Castle.

Despite visiting Edinburgh previously, I never got a chance to visit these two sites. I was so excited because I knew that these were the perfect sites to visit with a group: having a guide that is dedicated to sharing history and answering your questions is a top tier experience that isn’t always available to you as a solo traveler. Also, members of tour groups often come up with excellent questions that add richness and deeper understanding to the conversations held while touring.

St Giles’ Cathedral is a very special place for Clan Graham and the Clan Graham Society (the group I toured with while in Scotland). This is the final resting place for James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, the ancestral head of Clan Graham. This somber site is a stunningly beautiful building, with lots of stained glass and a ton of fascinating history. The church still operates out of this building, as it has done for the past 900 years. You can attend services if you happen to be in Edinburgh: services are held on Sundays and mid-day during the week.

Stunning architecture overhead at St Giles’ Cathedral

I was deeply moved as I paid my respects to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. I was amazed by the peaceful and dignified likeness of Graham on his sarcophagus. Richard Graham, North American Chieftain of Clan Graham, and president of Clan Graham Society, provided a stirring recitation of the poem written by James Graham prior to his execution.

The 1st Marquess of Montrose, James Graham

Richard Graham paying his respects to his ancestor

The poem recited was, “Let them bestow on every airth a limb”, a haunting description of the execution that the 1st Marquess knew he’d experience, as well as his assured belief that God would recover his spirit and view him as righteous. This beautiful poem is worth sharing here (courtesy of All Poetry):

Let them bestow on every airth a limb,

Let them bestow on every airth a limb,
Then open all my veins, that I may swim
To thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake,
Then place my par boiled head upon a stake;
Scatter my ashes, strow them in the air.
Lord, since thou knowest where all these atoms are,
I’m hopeful thou’lt recover once my dust,
And confident thou’lt raise me with the just.

I also saw that James Graham and some of his descendants were honored at several different memorials within St Giles’.

Memorializing the 1st Marquess of Montrose

I was amused by the story of Jenny Geddes, the woman who threw a stool at the head of a St. Giles’ minister, in protest of the attempted Anglican-izing of the Scottish church. I was in awe of the Thistle Chapel, where the Order of the Thistle (the chivalrous organization headed by King Charles III) convenes. Hearing the significance of each of the seats and the decorative emblems chosen for the members of the Order was fascinating.

A statue in tribute to Jenny Geddes’ cuttie-stool

Crests in stained glass in the meeting area for the Order of the Thistle

The spectacular ceiling in Thistle Chapel

Details above the seats in Thistle Chapel

This beautiful cathedral also had the honor of accommodating Queen Elizabeth II’s body for nearly 24 hours as she was relocated from Balmoral Castle to Buckingham Palace. A couple of years ago, I had the honor to pay my respects to Her Majesty at her final resting place in Windsor Castle. I did not know that her body had also traveled to Edinburgh en route to Westminster Abbey.

Memorial commemorating where HM Queen Elizabeth II laid en route to London

One unique memorial plaque that I saw was the one to Elsie Maud Inglis, a physician and suffragist who founded the Scottish Women’s Hospitals for Foreign Services. Her organization served extensively during World War I, and supported the Serbian army during this time. Inglis is honored in both Edinburgh and in Serbia.

And what Scottish historical site would be complete without a tribute to national treasure Robert Burns? The stained glass window dedicated to Burns is a delight to the eyes.

Burns memorial stained glass window at St Giles’ Cathedral

After leaving St. Giles’ Cathedral, we headed over to Edinburgh Castle. These two significant landmarks are a short distance from one another. I really loved Edinburgh Castle, and it was a treat to see the Scottish crown jewels (sadly, we were not allowed to photograph them). Seeing this incredible site, where King James the VI was born, made a lasting impression on me.

One of the structures at Edinburgh Castle

Sleek, elegant lion sculpture at Edinburgh Castle

When we finished touring the castle, we met up with a friend living in Edinburgh and had a great lunch at a local restaurant, The Mussel and Steak Bar. I don’t like mussels, but I enjoy most other seafood, so I knew I’d find something I like. I had an AMAZING crab lunch that was massive, messy and delicious.

We finished the evening with a dinner and performance at Ghillie Dhu, where a bagpiper and highland dancers entertained us. We ate a great dinner and I tried real haggis for the first time. We ended the night with a little bit of ceilidh dancing.

My last full day in Edinburgh was incredible and memorable. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful city, but I also missed my family, and I was ready to see them and to get back to my routine.

I’ll talk about my interesting return back to my hometown in my next post. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!

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My Heart Belongs to Scotland – Stirling

November 22, 2025November 22, 2025 Mstldelano1 Comment

In my previous posts, I shared my reflections on my time in Stonehaven, Aboyne and Glasgow, Scotland. As the tour progressed, our next stop was Stirling, the “heart of Scotland” (their words, not mine, though I don’t disagree).

Not where I stayed, but a gorgeous building in Stirling

After a fantastic day at Mugdock Castle and a stop by a roadside shop in the Trossachs, where I was able to feed and pet some highland coos, we rode for about 50 minutes until we got to Stirling . We were greeted by a statue of Scottish poet Robert Burns.

Soon after reaching downtown Stirling, we checked into Hotel Colessio. This charming boutique hotel was picturesque and perfectly located. It was a short walking distance to two central attractions: downtown Stirling on one side and Stirling Castle on the other. The rooms here, like the rooms at each hotel on this tour, were clean, comfortable and charming, and the meals were delicious.

After dinner and getting a good night’s rest, we started the first full day in Stirling at the Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre. Our enthusiastic guide described the battle and the contributing factors in great detail, and he managed to strike that perfect balance between knowledge and entertainment. As someone who (prior to this trip) knew very little about Scotland’s history, I was happy to have guides at each of our stops who eagerly shared information with me, as well as my wonderful tour companions who added additional depth and flavor to these discussions.

Statue of Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn

I know precious little about military logistics and strategy, but hearing how Robert the Bruce won the Battle of Bannockburn by leveraging topographical knowledge was thrilling. Once we finished the discussion portion of the tour, we went outside and saw the statue of Robert the Bruce, situated in a courtyard that was encircled by another artwork, a highly textured brick wall that was topped by verses of “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie.

Books about Robert the Bruce in the Bannockburn gift shop

One verse of “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie

Another verse in, “Here Lies Our Land” by Kathleen Jamie

When we finished our time at Bannockburn, it was time for lunch, so we stopped in at Nicky-Tams Bar and Bothy, a pub nearby Hotel Colessio. This 300-year-old pub is the perfect stop after a morning of exploring. I order the vegetarian haggis, one of my favorite dishes when in Scotland. I love tasting different versions of veggie haggis to see which ones taste most similar to the real deal (I’ve also tried real haggis a few times, just to base my comparison). The neeps and tatties accompaniment at Nicky-Tams was unique: instead of offering it as two separate sides, the veggies are combined into a single mash and served as a singular item. The dish was tasty and hearty. I also tried Jubel beer, a Cornish beer that features fruit flavors. It was delicious and refreshing. I will certainly return to Nicky-Tams in the future, since they are known for live music in the evenings and, on this trip, I was unable to take full advantage of that.

Veggie haggis, neeps and tatties at Nicky Tam

Once we were finished with lunch, we went to Stirling Distillery, where we met the Lord Provost of Stirling, Elaine Watterson. I wish I’d taking more photos at the intimate distillery, one of the smallest in Scotland. Because whisky must be aged at least 3 years and one day in order to be labeled “whisky”, and, the distillery was still aging their next batch, we were unable to try their whisky. However, they happily conducted a tasting where we tried a few gins and whiskys from nearby distilleries instead.

After visiting the distillery, we were off to Stirling Castle. This childhood home of Mary, Queen of Scots, was stately and picturesque. One of my favorite features, other than the meticulous grounds, was the Stirling Heads Gallery, a vast collection of oak carvings, both painted and plain, depicting some of the most prominent people of Scottish history. These nearly 500 year old portraits were originally used to decorate the ceiling of a room in Stirling Castle, but now they are on display for us to enjoy.

Statue of Robert the Bruce at Stirling Castle

The heads that are part of the overall collection

The Prince’s Tower, the original nursery for a number of Scottish royals

This full day of activity ended with us returning to Hotel Colessio for dinner, and a deep, restful sleep followed.

The next day, we ate breakfast and dressed well because we were headed to Buchanan Castle Golf Club for the Clan Graham Annual General Meeting (AGM). At this event, we were greeted by His Grace, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose, descendant of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Standing beside His Grace, in the soft, misty rain, was a bagpiper, welcoming us in the warmest Scottish way.

Meticulously maintained grounds at the Buchanan Country Club

We ate a lovely meal at the club, and then the AGM occurred, where members voted on organizational proposal. We took some great photos on the grounds of the club, and then journeyed back to our hotel.

When we returned to the hotel, we had another fantastic dinner, and we also had the Mugdock Auction. We brought items and submitted them for a silent auction, with all proceeds being contributed to the Mugdock preservation efforts. The ballroom of Hotel Colessio was perfectly charming and well suited for the auction. We enjoyed songs, traditional highland dance, bagpiping, and an entertaining auction. We had such a good time together!

This was our last night at Hotel Colessio. After the auction and dinner, we returned to our rooms and began to pack our things. The next day would whisk us off to the next cities: Inverness and Montrose!

Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for the next post on my summer vacation!

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My Heart Belongs to Scotland – Glasgow and Clan Graham

November 20, 2025November 19, 2025 Mstldelano1 Comment

This is a continuation of my recap of my time in Scotland. After landing in Edinburgh, traveling up to Stonehaven, and enjoying some time at the Aboyne Games, my friend and I journeyed to Glasgow to continue our adventure.

Instead of taking the LNER train, we rode ScotRail. We weren’t able to upgrade our tickets for this leg of our trip, but we ended up with good and comfortable window seats. We were joined by an adorable young married couple – Lola and Hal – on their way to Glasgow for a fun weekend. We had a fantastic conversation and enjoyed the sights as we chugged along for two hours.

We arrived at the Glasgow train station and started the walk to the Maldron Hotel. This was our first time at a modern hotel in Scotland: the hotels we stayed in before (and after) this one were mostly boutique style and more historical. The sleek and modern decor was fun and fresh. We dropped off our bags, freshened up, and prepared to meet our tour group for dinner.

Our tour was hosted by Clan Graham Society, the organization endorsed by the head of Clan Graham, James Graham, 8th Duke of Montrose. The tour was organized to commemorate Clan Graham Society’s 50th Anniversary and was coordinated by several members of Clan Graham – specifically, Kate Graham and Kiersten Graham Dick, along with Gordon Graham – and every detail was considered with care. All members of the group, except for a few folks like me, have a connection to James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Clan Graham is extraordinarily warm and welcoming, and I joined the organization as a friend of Clan Graham. My friend, who was my roommate for the entirety of the trip, has a Graham-affiliated surname, so she’s a member of Clan Graham and encouraged me to join. I’m so thankful for her encouraging me to become part of the group!

In our ten day tour, we visited sites that were historically relevant to Scotland as a whole, as well as sites relevant to Graham history specifically. Every other day or so, we traveled to another town or city, each one significant in its own right.

We enjoyed delightful meals at the Maldron each day during our stay (we were there two nights). On the first full day in Glasgow, we were supposed to go to the Isle of Arran, but the weather was unfavorable (one of the strongest storms of the summer happened on this day). While the group made alternate arrangements, my friend and I – still quite tired from our time in Stonehaven and Aboyne – decided to sleep in and explore Glasgow in the afternoon instead.

While walking around, we came across many interesting and old buildings that were photo-worthy. But, despite Glasgow being full of gothic, Victorian and art nouveau structures, the city has a distinctly modern, “concrete jungle” feel. It’s undeniably metropolitan energy gives it an edge and pulse that wholly unlike the laidback energy of Edinburgh. To be frank, I love both cities and will happily return many times, if I’m able.

After grabbing a delicious hot chocolate from Hotel Chocolat (complete with chocolate whipped cream rose, no less), we stumbled across Frasers department store, and I became an instant fan. As a lover of the department stores of yesteryear, Frasers reminded me of the kind of stores that are becoming rarer to find stateside. It was so nice to walk in and get an experience similar to Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Liberty or Selfridges. I found an amazing formal gown that I had to purchase, and had a wonderful chat with one of the sales reps at Frasers. I’m so pleased that we stumbled upon this store, because none of the other cities or towns on our tour had a Frasers.

Hotel Chocolat is always a must when in the UK

Once we finished shopping, we made our way back to the hotel. I snapped photos of interesting things I saw on our walk, including Nelson Mandela Place, a street named after the South African former President, Nobel Peace Prize recipient, and anti-apartheid activist. I also saw shops and architectural details that I loved.

Snapshot of Nelson Mandela Place street sign

Restaurant I want to try when I return to Glasgow

Before we walked the final block to our hotel, we stopped off at the DoubleTree by Hilton to check out their restaurant, Cask & Clyde. The menu had a fair amount of options, and I found a couple of things that looked good (namely, the soup of the day – lentil – and macaroni and cheese). I also enjoyed an old fashioned while I waited for my food.

I enjoyed my Cask & Clyde experience, and will definitely return when I get back to Glasgow. After we were full, we returned to our rooms and relaxed for a few hours before dinner.

The next day, we loaded our luggage onto the tour bus in preparation for checkout. Our bags stayed on the bus as we journeyed to our first stop on day 2: Mugdock Castle. This was the original stronghold for Clan Graham more than 800 years ago. The castle is now mostly in ruins, but Mugdock Country Park is still an incredible site and well worth the visit. The castle is about a 15 minute walk from the entrance. On the trail to the castle, you will see the remains of Craigend Zoo, as well as many dog owners taking their friendly pups for walks.

When we arrived at the castle, Clan Graham’s chieftain, Richard Graham, presented the caretakers of Mugdock Castle with a 50th anniversary commemorative plate. It was a touching ceremony and I’m so glad I got to witness it. Inside the castle, there are a number of Clan Graham artifacts, including a number of pieces emblazoned with royal crests. The site is a beautiful one that is listed by the Scottish Tourism Board. While the day was misty and cool, the walks to and from the castle were refreshing and picturesque.

Sign depicting the original structure of Mugdock Castle

Mugdock Castle timeline and sketch of James Graham 1st Marquess of Montrose

Closeup of crest which roughly translates to “Royal and United as One”

History of persecution of suspected witches in Scotland

Biography of James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose

We returned to the main entrance building and warmed up with lentil soup, sandwiches and coffee and tea. The guides graciously answered our questions and gave us a delightful end to a fantastic day at Mugdock.

Chuckling with the professional actor outside of Mugdock Castle

We boarded the tour bus and made our way to the next city on our tour, Stirling. However, we stopped momentarily at Loch Katrine, then followed that with a later stop at a local shop which had some highland coos in a neighboring field, and I got the treat of a lifetime when I was able to feed those sweet coos!

Stop near the Trossachs and seeing highland coos

This full day of activity was only a glimpse of the magic to come on my Scotland vacation! I’m excited to share with you the next part in a few days, where I will discuss my time in Stirling. Until then, take care, and thanks for reading!